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Tuesday, November 28, 2023

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN  PEINT PAR   CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

  

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN Le Cervin / Matterhorn/ Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft) Suisse / Italie

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)
Le Cervin / Matterhorn/ Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse / Italie


La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses.

Le peintre
Charles-Henri Contencin, est un peintre de montagne français. Élevé par sa grand-mère dans l'Oberland bernois jusqu'à l'âge de 10-12 ans, il demeure toute sa vie un passionné de montagne. Il fait la grande guerre dans l'infanterie et il reçoit la Croix de Guerre. Il travaille ensuite dans un cabinet d'architecte puis à la Compagnie des chemins de fer du Nord et enfin à la SNCF où il sera responsable des ouvrages d'art.  Doué pour le dessin, industriel et artistique, il a suivi des cours de dessin à l'école ABC de dessin de Paris3. En plus de ses dessins professionnels il est également auteur d'affiches et de prospectus publicitaires pour les chemins de fer sous le pseudonyme de « Charles-Henri ». Il est surtout connu pour sa peinture de montagne et laisse, en la matière, une œuvre importante. Il est entré à la SPM en 1929, en a été secrétaire général de 1950 à 1953, puis président de 1954 à 1955. Il a exposé régulièrement au Salon des artistes français. Il a également exposé au Salon des indépendants, de 1927 à 1938, notamment des tableaux représentant des paysages de Haute-Savoie et du Midi, au Salon de l'école française en 1932 : Neige à Chamonix  et Argentière (vallée de Chamonix)  et au Salon d'hiver de 1945 à 1950.  Sa palette est caractéristique et il apprécie tout particulièrement les effets de lever ou de coucher de soleil sur la neige  ou les glaciers.

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2023 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

 

 

Thursday, May 18, 2023

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PEINT PAR GABRIEL LOPPÉ

 

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913) Matterhorn / Cervin/ Cervino( (4,478m -14,691ft) Suisse - Italie  In " Le Cervin vu de Riffelsee, huile sur toile, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)
Matterhorn / Cervin/ Cervino  (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse - Italie

In " Le Cervin vu de Riffelsee, huile sur toile, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London
 
 

La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses. 

Le peintre
Gabriel Loppé est un peintre français, photographe et alpiniste qui est devenu le premier étranger membre du Club alpin britannique de Londres. À 21 ans, il grimpe une petite montagne dans le Languedoc et y trouve un groupe de peintres qui en esquisse le sommet. Ce jour-là, il trouve sa vocation. Il se rend ensuite à Genève où il rencontre le chef de file suisse des peintres paysagistes, Alexandre Calame (1810-1864). Loppé s'initie à l'alpinisme à Grindelwald  dans les années 1850 et se fait facilement de nombreux amis parmi les alpinistes anglais en France et en Suisse. Bien qu'il soit souvent étiqueté comme un élève de Calame et de son rival François Diday, Loppé est plutôt un artiste autodidacte. Il est devenu le premier peintre à travailler à haute altitude, profitant de ses expéditions et gagnant le droit d'être considéré comme le fondateur de l'école des peintres-alpinistes, qui s'est établie en Savoie  à la fin du 19e siècle. Ses peintures sont aujourd'hui célèbres pour leur atmosphère et leur spontanéité  et  sont exposées régulièrement à Londres et Paris.  En 1896, Loppé aura passé plus de cinquante saisons d'escalade et de peinture à Chamonix. Parmi les disciples notables de Loppé, on compte Charles-Henri Contencin (1875-1955) et Jacques Fourcy (1900-1991). Ils se retrouvèrent ensemble pour la première ascension du Mont Mallet (un sommet du massif du Mont-Blanc) par la voie des Grandes Jorasses à Chamonix, Loppé fit également plus de quarante ascensions du Mont Blanc au cours de sa carrière d'alpiniste, qui a duré jusqu'à la fin des années 1890. Il a souvent fait des croquis à l'huile des sommets alpins, y compris un panorama depuis le sommet du Mont Blanc. Une exposition itinérante nommée "Voyages en montagne" a été consacrée à l'œuvre de l'artiste en 2005-2006 aux musées d'Annecy, de Chambéry et de Gap.
Dans ses dernières années, Loppé est pris d'une fascination pour la photographie et a même beaucoup innové dans ce domaine. Sa photographie de la Tour Eiffel frappée par la foudre fait maintenant partie des collections du Musée d'Orsay à Paris.

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2023 - Wandering Vertexes ....
Errant au-dessus des Sommets Silencieux...
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

Saturday, March 18, 2023

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN/ CERVINO PEINT PAR CESARE MAGGI

CESARE MAGGI( 1881-1961) Le Cervin ou Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft) Suisse - Frontiere italienne  Il Lago Blu, Breuil-Cervinia, Val d’Aosta, Italy. (Le Matterhorn vu de Cervinia) huile sur toile, 100 x 140 cm, Courtesy John Mitchell Fine Paintings Gallery, London


CESARE MAGGI (1881-1961)
Le Cervin / Matterhorn  / Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft)
Frontière Italo-Suisse

Il Lago Blu, Breuil-Cervinia, Val d’Aosta, Italy. (Le Matterhorn vu de Cervinia) huile sur toile, 100 x 140 cm, Courtesy John Mitchell Fine Paintings Gallery, London

La montagne
Le Cervin (en allemand : Matterhorn, en italien : Cervino) est, avec une altitude de 4 478 mètres, le 12e sommet des Alpes. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques telles que Toblerone ou Ricola.  Ses quatre faces se rejoignent à environ 400 mètres en dessous du sommet dans une pyramide sommitale, appelée « le toit ». Son sommet est une arête large d'environ deux mètres, sur laquelle se distinguent en réalité deux sommets : celui appelé « sommet suisse », le plus à l'est, qui culmine à 4 477,8 mètres d'altitude, et le « sommet italien », légèrement plus bas (4 476 mètres), sur la partie ouest de l'arête. Les deux sont séparés par une échancrure au creux de laquelle une croix a été posée en septembre 1901. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, fut considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme européen. Mais cette ascension se solda, au début de la descente, par la mort de 4 des 7 membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses.

Le peintre
Le peintre italien Cesare Maggi est né dans une famille d'acteurs. Maggi se lance dans les études classiques à la demande de son père mais aussi très tôt dans la peinture, d'abord avec l'artiste livornois Vittorio Matteo Corcos en 1897, puis avec Gaetano Esposito à Naples. Ses débuts à Florence à l'Esposizione Annuale della Società di Belle Arti di Firenze, en 1898, sont suivis d'un court voyage à Paris pour se tenir au courant des derniers évolutions. Le tournant décisif dans l'art de Maggi a lieu en 1889 avec l'exposition posthume de Giovanni Segantini organisée par la Société milanaise des Beaux-Arts, qui l'incite à passer définitivement à la peinture de paysage à caractère divisioniste. Après un court séjour à Engadine, il retourne à Milan avant de s'installer définitivement à Turin. La collaboration commerciale avec Alberto Grubicy jusqu'en 1913 permet à Maggi de s'établir rapidement comme l'un des principaux représentants de la deuxième génération de peintres divisionnistes en Italie. Il peint un répertoire de paysages de montagne facilement compréhensibles, se concentrant principalement sur les aspects de la perception visuelle du reflet de la lumière et de la couleur, mais manquant de la spiritualité profonde de l'œuvre de Segantini. Il participe aux grandes expositions italiennes et européennes et la Biennale de Venise consacre une salle entière à son travail à l'Esposizione Internazionale d'Arte de Venise en 1912. Après un intermède consacré à la peinture de portrait dans la même décennie, le travail mature de l'artiste se concentre sur une plus grande simplification du sujet, principalement dans les paysages. Maggi obtient la chaire de peinture à l'Académie Albertina à Turin en 1936. Cesare Maggi meurt en 1961 à Turin

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2023 - Wandering Vertexes ....
Errant au-dessus des Sommets Silencieux...
Un blog de Francis Rousseau 


Wednesday, September 14, 2022

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PAINTED BY FELIX VALOTTON

FELIX VALOTTON (1865-1925) Cervin / Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft) Switzerland - Italy border  In  Zermatt et le Cervin /Mateerhorn

 
FELIX VALOTTON (1865-1925)
Cervin / Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland - Italy border

In  Zermatt et le Cervin /Matterhorn

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.


The painter
Félix Edouard Vallotton was a Swiss/French painter and printmaker associated (from 1892) with Les Nabis, a group of young artists that included Pierre Bonnard, Ker-Xavier Roussel, Maurice Denis, and Edouard Vuillard, with whom Vallotton was to form a lifelong friendship. During the 1890s, when Vallotton was closely allied with the avant-garde, his paintings reflected the style of his woodcuts, with flat areas of color, hard edges, and simplification of detail. His subjects included genre scenes, portraits and nudes. Examples of his Nabi style are the deliberately awkward Bathers on a Summer Evening (1892–93), now in the Kunsthaus Zurich, and the symbolist Moonlight (1895), in the Musée d'Orsay, Paris.
Vallotton's paintings of the post-Nabi period found admirers, and were generally respected for their truthfulness and their technical qualities, but the severity of his style was frequently criticized. Typical is the reaction of the critic who, writing in the March 23, 1910 issue of Neue Zurcher Zeitung, complained that Vallotton "paints like a policeman, like someone whose job it is to catch forms and colors. Everything creaks with an intolerable dryness ... the colors lack all joyfulness."
In its uncompromising character his art prefigured the New Objectivity that flourished in Germany during the 1920s, and has a further parallel in the work of Edward Hopper.

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2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Friday, September 2, 2022

MOUNT ASPIRING / TITETEA BY LAURENCE WILLIAM WILSON


LAURENCE WILLIAM WILSON (1851-1912) Mount Aspiring / Tititea (3, 033 m -9,951 ft) New Zealand  In Mount Aspiring, Matukituki River, watercolour, Christchurh Art Gallery- Te Puna o Waiwhetu.


LAURENCE WILLIAM WILSON (1851-1912)
Mount Aspiring / Tititea (3, 033 m -9,951 ft)
New Zealand

In Mount Aspiring, Matukituki River, watercolour,
Christchurh Art Gallery- Te Puna o Waiwhetu.



The mountain
Mount Aspiring / Tititea is New Zealand's highest mountain outside the Aoraki/Mount Cook region.
Set within Otago's Mount Aspiring National Park, it has a height of 3,033 metres (9,951 ft). Māori named it Tititea, which translates as Glistening Peak. It was named in December 1857 by the Chief Surveyor for the Otago Province, John Turnbull Thomson.[2] It is also often called 'the Matterhorn of the South,' for its pyramidal peak when seen from the Matukituki River. The first ascent was on 23 November 1909 by Major Bernard Head and guides Jack Clarke and Alec Graham.[3] Head's party climbed to the summit ridge by the west face from the Bonar Glacier, a route not repeated until 1965.
Mount Aspiring / Tititea sits slightly to the west of the main divide, 30 kilometres west of Lake Wanaka.[2] It lies at the junction of three major glacial systems — the Bonar Glacier, which drains into the Waipara River, and the Volta and Therma Glaciers, which both drain into the Waitoto River. The Waipara is a tributary of the Arawhata River, and both the Arawhata and Waitoto Rivers flow out to the west coast in between Haast and Jackson Bay.


The painter
Laurence William Wilson emigrated to Auckland in 1877 and then travelled extensively to settle in Dunedin in 1884. He painted in both oils and watercolours, became a painting companion of George O'Brien and a teacher. One of his pupils was the Dunedin artist Alfred O'Keefe. In 1895, LW Wilson together with Grace Joel, Alfred O'Keefe, Jane Wimperis and Girolami Nerli formed the Easel Club , a breakaway from the Dunedin Establishment, which offered a programme of special classes and the introduction of a professional lady model for life drawing. In 1904 LW Wilson left Dunedin for Melbourne where he spent 5 months on a commissioned painting of the city before he set out for England, eventually returning to New Zealand via India and Africa. He exhibited with the Canterbury Society of Arts in 1882 and the Otago Art Society between 1994 and 1904. His work was included in the NZ and South Seas Exhibition Dunedin 1889-90 and at the St Louis Exposition in 1904. LW Wilson is represented in the collections of all the major public galleries in New Zealand.

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2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Friday, August 19, 2022

THE K2 PEAK PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO SELLA IN 1909


VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1843)    The K2  peak (8,611m - 28,251 ft)  China - Pakistan border  Photographed during the 1909 expedition  led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1843)  
 The K2  peak (8,611m - 28,251 ft) 
China - Pakistan border

Photographed during the 1909 expedition 
led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi 

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2  in 1909 (aAbove)
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.

The mountain 
K2 peak (8,611m - 28,251 ft)  also known as Mount Godwin-Austen or Chhogori is the second highest mountain in the world, after Mount Everest. It is located on the China-Pakistan border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China.
The name K2 is derived from the notation used by the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India. Thomas Montgomerie made the first survey of the Karakoram from Mount Haramukh, some 210 km (130 miles) to the south, and sketched the two most prominent peaks, labeling them K1 and K2.
The policy of the Great Trigonometric Survey was to use local names for mountains wherever possible and K1 was found to be known locally as Masherbrum. K2, however, appeared not to have acquired a local name, possibly due to its remoteness. The mountain is not visible from Askole, the last village to the south, or from the nearest habitation to the north, and is only fleetingly glimpsed from the end of the Baltoro Glacier, beyond which few local people would have ventured. The name Chogori, derived from two Balti words, chhogo ("big") and ri ("mountain")  has been suggested as a local name, but evidence for its widespread use is scant. It may have been a compound name invented by Western explorers or simply a bemused reply to the question "What's that called?" It does, however, form the basis for the name Qogir (simplified Chinese: 乔戈里峰; traditional Chinese: 喬戈里峰; pinyin: Qiбogēlǐ Fēng) by which Chinese authorities officially refer to the peak. Other local names have been suggested including Lamba Pahar ("Tall Mountain" in Urdu) and Dapsang, but are not widely used.
Lacking a local name, the name Mount Godwin-Austen was suggested, in honor of Henry Godwin-Austen, an early explorer of the area, and while the name was rejected by the Royal Geographical Society, it was used on several maps, and continues to be used occasionally.
The surveyor's mark, K2, therefore continues to be the name by which the mountain is commonly known. It is now also used in the Balti language, rendered as Kechu or Ketu (Urdu: کے ٹو‎). The Italian climber Fosco Maraini argued in his account of the ascent of Gasherbrum IV that while the name of K2 owes its origin to chance, its clipped, impersonal nature is highly appropriate for so remote and challenging a mountain. He concluded that it was ...
K2 is the highest point of the Karakoram range and the highest point in both Pakistan and Xinjiang.

Friday, May 13, 2022

ALEXANDRA PEAK AND MARGHERITA PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA


VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943) Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5,091m - 16,703 ft) Congo - Uganda border    In Alexandra peak and Margherita peak from the Stanley Plateau, photo, 1906


VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5, 091m - 16,703 ft)
Margherita Peak / mount stanley (5,109 m-16,763 ft)
Congo - Uganda border

  In Alexandra peak  and Margherita peak from the Stanley Plateau, photo, 1906


The mountain
Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft) is part of Mount Stanley located in the Rwenzori range, the highest mountain of both Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m -19,340ft) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m - 17,057ft).
Mount Stanley consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are :
Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft), Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft).
The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa. As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGOs have supported the management and conservation of the property. A General Management Plan guides management operations on-site. Key challenges to address include illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming, human population pressure adjacent to the property and management of waste generated through tourism operations. UWA is addressing the above threats through resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The long-term maintenance of the integrity of the property will be achieved through sustainable financing, ecological monitoring, continued collaboration with key stakeholders and regional cooperation.

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888) and Les Rouies (1900).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2 in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram, he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II. His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain. His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags. His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder." Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
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2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Wednesday, September 22, 2021

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PAINTED BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913) Le Cervin or Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft) Switzerland - Italy border  In "Le Mont Cervin par temps nuageux, l'après midi", étude, huile sur toile 29x 18, 5cm, 1884.

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)
Le Cervin or Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland - Italy border

In "Le Mont Cervin par temps nuageux, l'après midi", étude, huile sur toile 29x 18, 5cm, 1884.

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.
Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.
The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.
Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen
Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.
Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.
The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.
The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:
- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)
- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)
- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).
The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter
Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s. He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.

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2021 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau


Sunday, April 18, 2021

THE MOUNT STANLEY BY VITTORIO SELLA

 


VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Margherita Peak / Mont Stanley (5,109 m-16,763 ft)
Congo - Uganda border

In Mt Stanley from the Esward Peak of Mt Baker - Photographed in 1906 during the Duke of Abruzzi expedition


The Mountain
Mount Stanley (5,109 m -16,762 ft) is located in the Rwenzori range and is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m -19,340ft) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m - 17,057ft). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.
Mt. Stanley consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are :
Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft), Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft).
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa. As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGOs have supported the management and conservation of the property. A General Management Plan guides management operations on-site. Key challenges to address include illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming, human population pressure adjacent to the property and management of waste generated through tourism operations. UWA is addressing the above threats through resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The long-term maintenance of the integrity of the property will be achieved through sustainable financing, ecological monitoring, continued collaboration with key stakeholders andregional cooperation.

The photographer
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori
- Recognition at K2 and Mustagh Tower in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II. His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain. His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags. His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder." Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.

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2021 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Saturday, April 10, 2021

THE JUNGFRAU PAINTED BY GIORGIO AVANTI

GIORGIO AVANTI (c.1946), Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13, 642 ft) Switzerland, John Mitchell Gallery, Swiss painters, 
 
GIORGIO AVANTI (c.1946)
Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13, 642 ft) 
Switzerland
 
In Jungfrau 2019, oil on acrylic on canvas, 100 x 120 cm. Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery, London

The artist
A recognized Swiss author, poet and painter, Peter Studer uses ‘Giorgio Avanti’ as a pseudonym. He lives and works from a studio in Walchwil on the eastern shore of Lake Zug, in the heart of Switzerland.
Avanti’s use of intense colour has earned him the epithet as the colourist of the Alps and a lengthy article published about his life and work that came out in the October and November 2020 edition of Munich’s art magazine, Mundus, was subtitled The Kolorist der Alpen. Drawing parallels with the Polish colourists of the 1930s and 1940s, the closest living counterpart to Avanti is the recently deceased American painter, Wolf Kahn.
Studer was born in Luzern and studied for a career in law before taking up abstract painting in the 1980s. Moving to portraiture and genre scenes a decade later, Studer has spent the latter half of his career concentrating on the Swiss Alps. Mundus’s journalist, Lena Naumann, characterizes Avanti as a twenty-first century disciple of Giovanni Segantini in his interpretation of the Alps whereas the painter would align himself just as closely with the work of Ferdinand Hodler, the leading Swiss painter of the late nineteenth century and Willy Guggenheim, known as Varlin.
Peter Studer refers to his gift for poetry and short stories as ‘painting with words’. His vibrant canvases display their own poetry, one derived entirely from colour.

The mountain
The Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13,642 ft)
("The virgin" in german) is one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps, located between the northern canton of Bern and the southern canton of Valais, halfway between Interlaken and Fiesch. Together with the Eiger and Mönch, the Jungfrau forms a massive wall overlooking the Bernese Oberland and the Swiss Plateau, one of the most distinctive sights of the Swiss Alps. It is one of the most represented by artists summits with the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc. The summit was first reached on August 3, 1811 by the Meyer brothers of Aarau and two chamois hunters from Valais. The ascent followed a long expedition over the glaciers and high passes of the Bernese Alps. It was not until 1865 that a more direct route on the northern side was opened. The construction of the Jungfrau railway in the early 20th century, which connects Kleine Scheidegg to the Jungfraujoch, the saddle between the Mönch and the Jungfrau, made the area one of the most-visited places in the Alps. Along with the Aletsch Glacier to the south, the Jungfrau is part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, which was declared a World Heritage Site in 2001.
Politically, the Jungfrau is split between the municipalities of Lauterbrunnen (Bern) and Fieschertal (Valais). It is the third-highest mountain of the Bernese Alps after the nearby Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn, respectively 12 and 8 km away. But from Lake Thun, and the greater part of the canton of Bern, it is the most conspicuous and the nearest of the Bernese Oberland peaks; with a height difference of 3,600 m between the summit and the town of Interlaken. This, and the extreme steepness of the north face, secured for it an early reputation for inaccessibility.
The landscapes around the Jungfrau are extremely contrasted. Instead of the vertiginous precipices of the north-west, the south-east side emerges from the upper snows of the Aletsch Glacier at around 3,500 metres. The 20 km long valley of Aletsch on the south-east is completely uninhabited and also surrounded by other similar glacier valleys. The whole area constitutes the largest glaciated area in the Alps as well as in Europe.
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2021 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Tuesday, August 4, 2020

THE BREITHORN PAINTED BY JOHN J. REDMOND



JOHN J. REDMOND (1856-1929)
The Breithorn (4,165 m -13,664 ft) 
Switzerland - Italy border

In  Sunset on the Breithorn from Mürren, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, oil on canvas, 
Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery, London 

The mountain
The Breithorn (4,165 m -13,664 ft) which means "broad horn" in german - is a mountain range of the Pennine Alps as well as its highest peak (also called Breithorn Western Summit). The Breithorn is located on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It lies on the main chain of the Alps, approximately halfway between the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa and east of the Theodul Pass. Most of the massif is glaciated and includes several subsidiary peaks, all located east of the main summit: the Western summit (4, 165m), the Middle summit (4,159m), the Eastern Breithorn-twin also called The Gendarm (4,106m), the Roccia Nera (Schwarzfluh) (4,075m). The main summit is sometimes distinguished by the name Western Breithorn (German: Breithorn (Westgipfel), Italian: Breithorn Occidentale). The nearest settlements are Zermatt (Valais) and St-Jacques (Aosta Valley).
The Breithorn was first climbed in 1813 by Henry Maynard (climber), Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean Gras, Jean-Baptiste Erin and Jean-Jacques Erin.

The painter
John J. Redmond, was an american painter, active in late XIX and early XXth c. He belongs to the american impresssionism. His works were regularly exhibited in USA especially in Boston between 1888and 1909.
Born in Salem (Mass) he died in Switzerland.

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

THE JUNGFRAU MASSIF PAINTED BY ALEXANDRE CALAME


 


ALEXANDRE CALAME (1810-1864)
The Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13,642 ft)
Switzerland (Valais)

In The Jungfrau Massif and Lauterbrunnen Valley, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland oil on canvas, 50 x 63 cm, John Mitchell gallery, London 

The mountain
The Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13,642 ft) ("The virgin" in german) is one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps, located between the northern canton of Bern and the southern canton of Valais, halfway between Interlaken and Fiesch. Together with the Eiger and Mönch, the Jungfrau forms a massive wall overlooking the Bernese Oberland and the Swiss Plateau, one of the most distinctive sights of the Swiss Alps. It is one of the most represented by artists summits with the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc. The summit was first reached on August 3, 1811 by the Meyer brothers of Aarau and two chamois hunters from Valais. The ascent followed a long expedition over the glaciers and high passes of the Bernese Alps. It was not until 1865 that a more direct route on the northern side was opened. The construction of the Jungfrau railway in the early 20th century, which connects Kleine Scheidegg to the Jungfraujoch, the saddle between the Mönch and the Jungfrau, made the area one of the most-visited places in the Alps. Along with the Aletsch Glacier to the south, the Jungfrau is part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, which was declared a World Heritage Site in 2001.
Politically, the Jungfrau is split between the municipalities of Lauterbrunnen (Bern) and Fieschertal (Valais). It is the third-highest mountain of the Bernese Alps after the nearby Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn, respectively 12 and 8 km away. But from Lake Thun, and the greater part of the canton of Bern, it is the most conspicuous and the nearest of the Bernese Oberland peaks; with a height difference of 3,600 m between the summit and the town of Interlaken. This, and the extreme steepness of the north face, secured for it an early reputation for inaccessibility.
The landscapes around the Jungfrau are extremely contrasted. Instead of the vertiginous precipices of the north-west, the south-east side emerges from the upper snows of the Aletsch Glacier at around 3,500 metres. The 20 km long valley of Aletsch on the south-east is completely uninhabited and also surrounded by other similar glacier valleys. The whole area constitutes the largest glaciated area in the Alps as well as in Europe.

The painter
Alexandre Calame was a Swiss painter. He was the son of a skillful marble worker in Vevey. His father lost the family fortune, and Alexandre Calame was forced to work in a bank at the age of 15. When his father fell from a building and then died, the young Calame provided for his mother.
In his spare time he began to practice drawing small views of Switzerland. In 1829 he met his patron, the banker Diodati, who made it possible for him to study under landscape painter François Diday. After a few months he decided to devote himself fully to art.
In 1835, he began exhibiting his Swiss-Alps and forest paintings in Paris and Berlin. He became quite well known, especially in Germany, although Calame was more a drawer than an illustrator. He is associated with the Dusseldorf school of painting. In 1842 he went to Paris and displayed his works Mont Blanc, the Jungfrau, the Brienzersee, the Monte Rosa and Mont Cervin. He taught in Geneva, where Adolf Mosengel was one of his pupils.
He went to Italy in 1844 and brought back from Rome and Naples countless paintings, among them one of the ruins of Paestum (in the city museum in Leipzig). He showed that he was capable of understanding Italian nature; but the Alps remained his speciality.
The glaciers, emerald-green, white foaming mountain water, which split the trees during the storm, and the whipped clouds, the multi-colored rocks, half masked from fog, in the rays of the gleaming sun, are those things, which he knew to be true to nature.
One of his most ingenious works is the representation of the four seasons and times of the day in four landscapes, a spring morning in the south, a summer midday in the Nordic flatlands, an Autumn evening, and a winter night on a mountain. He became popular with these large works, and his popularity grew with smaller pieces and lithographies, namely 18 studies of Lauterbrunnen and Meiringen and the 24 sheets of Alpine passes. These were widespread in France, England, and Germany and are still today used to teach this style of painting.
He died in Menton, France in 1864. An exhibition featuring more than thirty of Calame's paintings was held at the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute in Williamstown, Massachusetts in 2006.

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

 
 
 

Saturday, March 21, 2020

MOUNT KAZBEK PHOTOGRAPHED IN 1889 BY VITTORIO SELLA


 

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Mount Kazbek  (5,047m - 16, 558ft)
Russia - Georgia border
In Expedition in Caucasus, photo on gelatin print, 1889
The mountain
Mount Kazbek (5,047m - 16, 558ft) or Mkinvartsveri (in Georgian) or Bashlam (in Vainkah) is a dormant stratovolcano and one of the major mountains of the Caucasus located in the Kazbegi District of Georgia, just south of the border with Russia. It is the third highest peak in Georgia (after Mount Shkhara and Janga) and the seventh highest summit in the Caucasus Mountains. Kazbek is also the second highest volcanic summit in the Caucasus, after Mount Elbrus. The summit lies directly to the west of the town of Stepantsminda and is the most prominent geographic feature of the area. Mount Kazbek is the highest peak of Eastern Georgia.
The region is highly active tectonically, with numerous small earthquakes occurring at regular intervals. An active geothermal/hot spring system also surrounds the mountain.
Kazbek is a potentially active volcano, built up of trachyte and sheathed with lava, and has the shape of a double cone, whose base lies at an altitude of 1,770 m (5,800 feet). Kazbek is the highest of the volcanic cones of the Kazbegi volcanic group which also includes Mount Khabarjina (3,142 m).
Owing to the steepness of its slopes, the glaciers of Kazbek are not very large. The total combined area of all of Kazbek's glaciers is 135 km2. The best-known glacier is the Dyevdorak (Devdaraki), which creeps down the north-eastern slope into a gorge of the same name, reaching a level of 2,295 meters (7,530 feet). Kazbek's other glaciers include the Mna, Denkara, Gergeti, Abano, and Chata. The recent collapse of the Kolka Glacier, located in a valley between Mt. Jimara and Kazbek in the year 2002 was attributed to solfatara volcanic activity along the northern slope of the mountain, although there was no eruption. In addition to the 2002 event, a massive collapse of the Devdaraki Glacier on the mountain's northeastern slope which occurred on August 20, 2014, led to the death of seven people. The glacier collapse dammed the Terek River in the Daryal Gorge and flooded the Georgian Military Highway.
The photographer
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori
- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
More about Vittorio Sella 

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau


Saturday, February 22, 2020

THE JUNFRAU BY JOHN SINGER SARGENT



 


JOHN SINGER SARGENT  (1856-1925)
The Jungfrau (4,158m -13, 642ft)
Switzerland
 
In Jungfrau from "Splendid Mountain Watercolours",  Sketchbook,  The MET museum


The mountain
The Jungfrau (4,158 m-13,642 ft) ("The virgin" in german) is one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps, located between the northern canton of Bern and the southern canton of Valais, halfway between Interlaken and Fiesch. Together with the Eiger and Mönch, the Jungfrau forms a massive wall overlooking the Bernese Oberland and the Swiss Plateau, one of the most distinctive sights of the Swiss Alps. It is one of the most represented by artists summits with the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc.
Politically, the Jungfrau is split between the municipalities of Lauterbrunnen (Bern) and Fieschertal (Valais). It is the third-highest mountain of the Bernese Alps after the nearby Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn, respectively 12 and 8 km away. But from Lake Thun, and the greater part of the canton of Bern, it is the most conspicuous and the nearest of the Bernese Oberland peaks; with a height difference of 3,600 m between the summit and the town of Interlaken. This, and the extreme steepness of the north face, secured for it an early reputation for inaccessibility.
The landscapes around the Jungfrau are extremely contrasted. Instead of the vertiginous precipices of the north-west, the south-east side emerges from the upper snows of the Aletsch Glacier at around 3,500 metres. The 20 km long valley of Aletsch on the south-east is completely uninhabited and also surrounded by other similar glacier valleys. The whole area constitutes the largest glaciated area in the Alps as well as in Europe.
More about The Jungfrau 


The painter
John Singer Sargent was an American artist who created roughly 900 oil paintings and more than 2,000 watercolors, as well as countless sketches and charcoal drawings. His oeuvre documents worldwide travel, from Venice to the Tyrol, Switzerland, Corfu, the Middle East, Montana, Maine, and Florida.
He was trained in Paris prior to moving to London. Sargent enjoyed international acclaim as a portrait painter, but in later life he expressed ambivalence about the restrictions of formal portrait work, and devoted much of his energy to mural painting and working en plein air. He lived most of his life in Europe. Each destination offered pictorial stimulation and treasure. Even at his leisure, in escaping the pressures of the portrait studio, he painted with restless intensity, often painting from morning until night. His hundreds of watercolors of Venice are especially notable, many done from the perspective of a gondola. His colors were sometimes extremely vivid and as one reviewer noted, "Everything is given with the intensity of a dream."  
 In the Middle East and North Africa Sargent painted Bedouins, goatherds, and fisherman. In the last decade of his life, he produced many watercolors in Maine, Florida, and in the American West, of fauna, flora, and native peoples.
With his watercolors, Sargent was able to indulge his earliest artistic inclinations for nature, architecture, exotic peoples, and noble mountain landscapes. And it is in some of his late works where one senses Sargent painting most purely for himself. His watercolors were executed with a joyful fluidness. His first major solo exhibit of watercolor works was at the Carfax Gallery in London in 1905. In 1909, he exhibited eighty-six watercolors in New York City, eighty-three of which were bought by the Brooklyn Museum. Evan Charteris wrote in 1927: 'To live with Sargent's water-colours is to live with sunshine captured and held, with the luster of a bright and legible world, 'the refluent shade' and 'the Ambient ardours of the noon.'
Although not generally accorded the critical respect given Winslow Homer, perhaps America's greatest watercolorist, scholarship has revealed that Sargent was fluent in the entire range of opaque and transparent watercolor technique, including the methods used by Homer.
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2020 - Wandering Vertexes / Mountain paintings
by Francis Rousseau
 

Thursday, February 20, 2020

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN (2) PAINTED BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955),
Mont Cervin / Mattherhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland

In The Matterhorn West face seen from the Stockji Glacier, Switzerland, Oil on canvas (39 x 46cm) Courtesy John Mitchell gallery

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) (in french), Matterhorn in German is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.
Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.
The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

The painter

Charles-Henri Contencin  is a famous French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures. In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Monday, February 17, 2020

LUIGI DI SAVOIA PEAK / MOUNT STANLEY PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO SELLA

 

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Mont Stanley / Savoia Peak (4,977 m - 16, 330 ft)
Congo - Uganda border

In Mount Luigi di Savoia panoramic taken from Mount Baker, 1906 
The Georgian Museum of Photography

The mountain
Mount Stanley (5,109 m -16,762 ft) is located in the Rwenzori range and is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m -19,340ft) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m - 17,057ft). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.
Mt. Stanley consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are :
Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft), Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft).
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.
More about Savoia peak / Mount Stanley
The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2 in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
More about Vittorio Sella 

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

Sunday, October 20, 2019

KIYANJA / MOUNT BAKER BY VITTORIO SELLA

 
 https://wanderingvertexes.blogspot.com/2019/10/kiyanja-mount-baker-by-vittorio-sella.html 
VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943) 
Kiyanja or Mount Baker (4,844m- 15,892 ft) 
Uganda
In Mount Baker,  panoramic from Grauer's Rock 1906,The Duke of the Abruzzi expedition 

The mountain
Kiyanja or Mount Baker (4,844m- 15,892 ft) is a mountain in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park in Uganda, 2.8 kilometres (1.7 mi) from the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is the sixth highest mountain in Africa. Together with Mount Stanley and Mount Speke, it forms a triangle enclosing the upper Bujuku Valley. The nearest peak is Mount Stanley, which is 2.26 kilometres (1.40 mi) to the west. The mountains lie within an area called "The Mountains of the Moon".
Like all peaks in the Ruwenzori Range, Mount Baker has multiple jagged peaks along a ridge. The highest is Edward Peak. The ridge line of Mount Baker was first reached in January 1906 by the Austrian mountaineer Rubert Grauer accompanied by two British missionaries, H. E. Maddox and H. W. Tegart. In February of that year and again in April, the same rocky point was reached by an English expedition, including Alexander F. R. Wollaston, A. B. Wosnam, and M. Carruthers. The highest point of Mount Baker was finally climbed in June by an expedition led by the Duke of the Abruzzi, with Vittorio Sella which climbed all peaks of the other five highest mountains of the Rwenzori (photo above)
The Bakonjo name for the mountain seems to have been (and currently is) "Kiyanja". On his June 1891 expedition into the Ruwenzori, Franz Stuhlmann observed the peak and named it either "Semper" or "Ngemwimbi". The Duke of the Abruzzi renamed the mountain after Samuel Baker, a 19th-century British explorer who in 1864 was the first European to sight and visit Lake Albert, just northeast of the Ruwenzori Mountains, and who had reported to glimpse "great mountainous masses away in the distance, to the south of Lake Albert."

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888) and Les Rouies (1900).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2 in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram, he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
More about Vittorio Sella 

_______________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau