LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PEINT PAR CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

  

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)
Le Cervin / Matterhorn/ Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse / Italie

La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses.

Le peintre
Charles-Henri Contencin, est un peintre de montagne français. Élevé par sa grand-mère dans l'Oberland bernois jusqu'à l'âge de 10-12 ans, il demeure toute sa vie un passionné de montagne. Il fait la grande guerre dans l'infanterie et il reçoit la Croix de Guerre. Il travaille ensuite dans un cabinet d'architecte puis à la Compagnie des chemins de fer du Nord et enfin à la SNCF où il sera responsable des ouvrages d'art.  Doué pour le dessin, industriel et artistique, il a suivi des cours de dessin à l'école ABC de dessin de Paris3. En plus de ses dessins professionnels il est également auteur d'affiches et de prospectus publicitaires pour les chemins de fer sous le pseudonyme de « Charles-Henri ». Il est surtout connu pour sa peinture de montagne et laisse, en la matière, une œuvre importante. Il est entré à la SPM en 1929, en a été secrétaire général de 1950 à 1953, puis président de 1954 à 1955. Il a exposé régulièrement au Salon des artistes français. Il a également exposé au Salon des indépendants, de 1927 à 1938, notamment des tableaux représentant des paysages de Haute-Savoie et du Midi, au Salon de l'école française en 1932 : Neige à Chamonix  et Argentière (vallée de Chamonix)  et au Salon d'hiver de 1945 à 1950.  Sa palette est caractéristique et il apprécie tout particulièrement les effets de lever ou de coucher de soleil sur la neige  ou les glaciers.

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2023 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

 

 

LE MONT BLANC PEINT PAR CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

Le Mont Blanc (4805,59m)
France - Italie

In "Le Mont Blanc vu de La Route de Saint-Gervais à Megève, France" huile sur toile 46 x 55cm ,Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery, London

La montagne
Le mont Blanc  (4805,59m) en italien : Monte Bianco, dans le massif du Mont-Blanc, est le point culminant de la chaîne des Alpes. Il est le plus haut sommet d'Europe occidentale et le sixième sur le plan continental en prenant en compte les montagnes du Caucase, dont l'Elbrouz (5 643 mètres) est le plus haut sommet. Il se situe sur la frontière franco-italienne, entre le département de la Haute-Savoie (en France) et la région autonome de la Vallée d'Aoste (en Italie) ; cette frontière est l'objet d'un litige historique entre les deux pays. Le sommet, objet de fascination dans de nombreuses œuvres culturelles, a depuis plusieurs siècles représenté un objectif pour toutes sortes d'aventuriers, depuis sa première ascension en 1786. De nombreux itinéraires fréquentés permettent désormais de le gravir avec une préparation sérieuse. Afin de déterminer son altitude précise et quantifier l'évolution de celle-ci, des géomètres experts font l'ascension périodiquement. La dernière mesure connue, en 2023, est de 4805,59m. Le seuil de surfréquentation du mont Blanc est atteint, avec 300 à 400 départs par jour en été. Lors du sommet du Conseil national de la montagne qui s'est tenu à Sallanches, fin août 2006, il a été estimé que 25 000 à 30 000 personnes se sont lancées en 2005 à la conquête du mont Blanc. Avec l'ouverture des nouveaux marchés (Russie, Chine, Inde), ce sont 50 000 à 100 000 personnes qui pourraient demain tenter l'aventure, le chiffre de 200 000 ayant même été avancé. Ces perspectives sont cauchemardesques pour les défenseurs du site et pour certains responsables politiques de la vallée, comme le maire de Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, commune sur laquelle se situe le mont Blanc. Lors de l'été 2003, avec la sécheresse et une fréquentation accrue du site, plusieurs dizaines de tonnes de détritus et déchets divers ont été laissées par les alpinistes qui campaient dans le secteur du refuge du Goûter. L'association Pro-mont Blanc a édité en 2002 le livre Le versant noir du mont Blanc qui expose les problèmes actuels et futurs qui se posent pour conserver le site en l'état.

 
Le peintre
Charles-Henri Contencin, est un peintre de montagne français. Élevé par sa grand-mère dans l'Oberland bernois jusqu'à l'âge de 10-12 ans, il demeure toute sa vie un passionné de montagne. Il fait la grande guerre dans l'infanterie et il reçoit la Croix de Guerre. Il travaille ensuite dans un cabinet d'architecte puis à la Compagnie des chemins de fer du Nord et enfin à la SNCF où il sera responsable des ouvrages d'art. Doué pour le dessin, industriel et artistique, il a suivi des cours de dessin à l'école ABC de dessin de Paris3. En plus de ses dessins professionnels il est également auteur d'affiches et de prospectus publicitaires pour les chemins de fer sous le pseudonyme de « Charles-Henri ». Il est surtout connu pour sa peinture de montagne et laisse, en la matière, une œuvre importante. Il est entré à la SPM en 1929, en a été secrétaire général de 1950 à 1953, puis président de 1954 à 1955. Il a exposé régulièrement au Salon des artistes français. Il a également exposé au Salon des indépendants, de 1927 à 1938, notamment des tableaux représentant des paysages de Haute-Savoie et du Midi, au Salon de l'école française en 1932 : Neige à Chamonix et Argentière (vallée de Chamonix) et au Salon d'hiver de 1945 à 1950. Sa palette est caractéristique et il apprécie tout particulièrement les effets de lever ou de coucher de soleil sur la neige ou les glaciers.

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2024 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

COL DE L'ISERAN & CRĒTE DES LESSIÈRES BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955) 

Col de l'Iseran (2,764 m - 9,068 ft)

Crête des Lessieres (2,986 m - 9,796 ft) 

France (Isère)

The mountain
The Col de l'Iseran  (2,764 m - 9,068 ft) one of the highest road passes in Europe allows the passage from the high Tarentaise (Isere Valley) to the high Maurienne (Arc Valley) by the D. 902 (eg N.202).
The pass itself is open in the lustrous schists that form the ridge of water sharing between Isère and Arc (they belong to the sheet of Méan Martin). The shaly lamination of these layers is generally arranged with a dip gently inclined to the northwest almost in accordance with the bottom, slightly inclined of the high valley of Iseran.
The crest of Leissières ((2,986 m - 9,796 ft)  which dominates it on the western side is orthogonal to the watershed and to the structure of which it gives a natural cut: one sees there appearing the layers of the unit of the Malpasset, characterized by its material sedimentary near the Grande Motte series.

The painter 
Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955) is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountains and high mountains of the great Alpine peaks (mainly Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins). His palette is very characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and left an important work. After many years of contempt coming mainly from parisian critics and intelligentsia, Contencin is now recognized worldwide as one of the major mountain painters of the 20th century.

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2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

THE DÔME DE NEIGE DES ECRINS BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

The Dôme de Neige des Ecrins (4,009 m - 13, 154ft) 

France (Dauphiné)

In The Dôme de Neige des Ecrins, Dauphin Alps, France, oil on panel, 33 x 41 cm, 

 John Mitchell Fine paintings London 

The mountain
The Dôme de neige des Ecrins ( The Ecrins Snow Dome) (4,009 m - 13, 154ft) is an alpine peak at the foot of the Écrins Bar, at the border between the French departments of Isère and Hautes-Alpes in the Dauphiné region. The Blanc glacier is surrounded by peaks allowing you to get acquainted with the high mountains before the ascent of this "4000" and acclimatize your body to the altitude. The climb is usually from the Ecrins refuge (3,170 m) and takes three to four hours for trained alpinists. It is a glacial race without technical difficulty, except for the crossing of the summit rimaye, random.
The current climb record is 1 h 57 from the Carle yard (1,874 m), made by Mathéo Jacquemoud in June 2011; it improves the record of Kílian Jornet dating from 2005. The record for round-trip skiing in mountain is 2 h 46 from the meadow of Madame Carle, directed by Steven Blanc in May 2014.

The painter 
Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955) is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountains and high mountains of the great Alpine peaks (mainly Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins). His palette is very characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and left an important work. After many years of contempt coming mainly from parisian critics and intelligentsia, Contencin is now recognized worldwide as one of the major mountain painters of the 20th century. 

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2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

AIGUILLE NOIRE DE PEUTEREY PAINTED BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898 - 1955)
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3,773 m - 12,379 ft)
Italy

 In The Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc, France Huile sur toile 54x73, John Mitchell Gallery London

The mountain  

The Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3,773 m - 12,379 ft) is a mountain of the Mont Blanc massif in Italy, forming part of the Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc with its higher neighbour, the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey. The best-known route on the mountain is the south ridge (TD), first climbed by Karl Brendelet and Hermann Schaller, on 26 and 27 August 1930; it remains one of the great classic rock routes in the massif. The first ascent of the complete Peuterey ridge including the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (the Intégrale) was on 28–31 July 1934 by Adolf Göttner, Ludwig Schmaderer and Ferdinand Krobath. On 21 August 2010 23-year-old Chloé Graftiaux, a leading Belgian sport climber, fell to her death on the mountain.

The painter
Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955) is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountains and high mountains of the great Alpine peaks (mainly Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins). His palette is very characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and left an important work. After many years of contempt coming mainly from parisian critics and intelligentsia, Contencin is now recognized worldwide as one of the major mountain painters of the 20th century.

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2021 -  Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN (2) PAINTED BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955),
Mont Cervin / Mattherhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland

In The Matterhorn West face seen from the Stockji Glacier, Switzerland, Oil on canvas (39 x 46cm) Courtesy John Mitchell gallery

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) (in french), Matterhorn in German is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.
Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.
The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

The painter
Charles-Henri Contencin  is a famous French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures. In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

LA MEIJE BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

La Meije (3,984m - 13, 071ft)

France (Isère)

  In La Meije et  l'Oratoire du Chazelet, oil on canvas,  1946

The mountain 

La Meije (3,984m- 13, 071ft) is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities, and also dominates the view west of the Col du Lautaret. It is the second highest mountain of the Écrins after Barre des Écrins. The central and second highest summit has five teeth, the highest of which is known as Le Doigt de Dieu (The Finger of God). This summit was reached from the northeast on June 28, 1870, by Christian and Ulrich Almer and Christian Gertsch, guiding Meta Brevoort and W.A.B. Coolidge. The ridge from the central to the main, Western peak, which is 13 meters higher, was considered an insurmountable obstacle for the next 15 years.
The Western true summit of La Meije, the Grand Pic, is notorious in that there is no "easy" path to its top and it was the last major peak in the Alps to be summited. The first ascent was eventually made from the southwest on 16 August 1877 by father and son Pierre Gaspard and their client Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau. Their approach, over the south buttress Arête du Promontoire and further over the Glacier Carré and the southwest face of the Grand Pic is now the normal route.
On July 26, 1885, Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Otto and Emil Zsigmondy made the first traverse from the central to the main summit, via the "insurmountable" gap that is now known as the Brèche Zsigmondy, in what is still considered a classic route though thoroughly modified by a may 1964 rockfall. The traverse in the opposite direction was accomplished 6 years later by Ulrich Almer, Fritz Boss and J.H. Gibson.
The south face is widely considered to be the most difficult of La Meije. Within two weeks after their successful traverse, the Zsigmondy brothers, together with Karl Schulz, tried to reach the Brèche Zsigmondy over the south face, but Emil died in the attempt. The first successful attempt was not until twenty-seven years later, in 1912 by Angelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, and the brothers Guido and Max Mayer, while a direct route over the south face to the Grand Pic was only climbed in 1935 and that to the Central Pic in 1951.
For mountaineering, La Meije can be approached from two mountain refuges:
- The refuge du Promontoire at 3,082 metres, situated at the bottom of the steep south buttress of the peak, and allows access to routes on the south face of the mountain.
- The refuge de l'Aigle at 3,450 metres, situated at the top of the Tabuchet glacier, and allows access to the north face.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

BARRE DES ECRINS BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

The Barre des Écrins (4,102 m - 13, 458ft)

France (Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur)

 In The Barre des Ecrins seen from above the Glacier Blanc Massif des Ecrins, France- 46 x5 6cm, oil on canvas, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London 

The mountain,

The Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) is a mountain in the French Alps with a peak at 4102m altitude. It is the highest peak of the Massif des Écrins and the Dauphiné Alps and the most southerly alpine peak in Europe that is higher than 4,000 m. It is the only 4,000 m mountain in France that lies outside the Mont Blanc Massif. Before the annexation of Savoy in 1860 it was the highest mountain in France.

The Barre des Écrins is the highest peak in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region including all of Occitania and the Southern Alps. It is located in the commune of Pelvoux and is situated near the Drainage divide between the Durance and the Vénéon. This divide passes 250 metres west of the summit, along the ridge that leads to the summit of the sub-peak Dôme des Écrins (4,088 m). The south face of the mountain is rocky while the north face is ice as it is the starting point of the Glacier Blanc. The mountain is surrounded by four glaciers: to the north-west is the Bonne Pierre glacier, to the north-east the Glacier Blanc, to the south-west the Glacier du Vallon de la Pilatte, and finally in the south-east the Glacier Noir. It is separated from the Snow Dome of Écrins (4,015 m) by the Lory Gap (3974 m) to the west, the Barre Noir (3,751 m) by the Écrins Gap (3, 661 m) to the north-east and by Fifre (3,699 m) via the Col des Avalanches (3,499 m) to the south.

The Écrins were discovered by geographers belatedly in the 19th century when they were the highest point in France.

The Englishmen A. W Moore, Horace Walker, and Edward Whymper, guided by Michel Croz from Chamonix and Christian Almer from Switzerland, made the first ascent of the Barre des Écrins on 25 June 1864. They cut steps on the north face of the Barre until they reached the top of the eastern edge via the Whymper corridor. They then reached the top of this high ridge which was composed of very unstable rocks. Edward Whymper described the ascension in his book Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69.

William Auguste Coolidge made the first direct climb up the north face of the Barre des Ecrins in July 1870 by cutting 500 steps.

The first ascent without a guide is credited to Frederick Gardiner in 1878 accompanied by Charles and Lawrence Pilkington.

The southern face was climbed for the first time in 1880 by Pierre Gaspard together with Henri Duhamel. The south pillar, a part of the Black glacier ending at the top, was climbed for the first time in 1944 by the famous couple of climbers Jeanne and Jean Franco.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.
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2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

THE CERVIN (MATTERHORN) PAINTED BY C.H. CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

Mont Cervin or Mattherhorn (4,478m -14,691ft), 

Switzerland

In Mont Cervin Face ouest, oil on canvas

The mountain 

Here is Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) (in french), an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.

Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.

The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen

Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.

Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.

The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.

The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:

- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)

- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)

- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).

The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

2016 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

LES GRANDES JORASSES BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

Les Grandes Jorasses (4,208m -13, 806 ft) 

 France - Italy border  

In Lever de soleil sur les Grandes Jorasses, 1872, oil on canvas,
Collection Amis du Vieux Chamonix

The mountain 

The Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m - 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy.  Les Grandes Jorasses are, simply speaking, the most strikingly complex and powerful structure of the entire Mont Blanc massif. If Mt. Blanc is the king of the Alps, the Grandes Jorasses complex is truly the queen.

The summits on the mountain (from east to west) are:

- Pointe Walker (4,208 m; 13,806 ft), named after Horace Walker, who made the first ascent of the mountain.

- Pointe Whymper (4,184 m; 13,727 ft), he second-highest summit named after Edward Whymper, who made the first ascent.

- Pointe Croz (4,110 m - 13,484 ft), named after Michel Croz, a guide from Chamonix.

- Pointe Elena (4,045 m -13,271 ft), named after Princess Elena of Savoy.

- Pointe Margherita (4,065 m- 13,337), named after Queen Margherita of Savoy, wife of King Umberto I of Italy

- Pointe Young (3,996 m - 13,110 ft)   named after Geoffrey Winthrop Young.

The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain (Pointe Walker) was by Horace Walker with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange on 30 June 1868. The second-highest peak on the mountain (Pointe Whymper )was first climbed by Edward Whymper, Christian Almer, Michel Croz and Franz Biner on June 24, 1865, using what has become the normal route of ascent and the one followed by Walker's party in 1868.

North Face

Located on the French side of the mountain, the north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps, along with the north faces of the Eiger and the Cervin/Matterhorn (known as 'the Trilogy'). One of the most famous walls in the Alps, it towers 1200 m (3,900 ft) above the Leschaux Glacier, stretching 1 km from end to end. 

South face

On the Italian side of the mountain, the south face can be accessed from the Boccalatte cabin, above the hamlet of Planpincieux in the Italian Val Ferret, part of the  municipality.

Summit ridge.

From the Col des Hirondelles, the summit ridge connects Pt. Walker to the other summit points and then descends to the Col des Grandes Jorasses where a bivouac shelter is located - the Bivouac E Canzio hut. The ridge forms the French-Italian border, almost all of which is above 4,000 m -13,000 ft).

The painter 

Gabriel Loppé (1825–1913) was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival Francois Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1900-1991). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s.  He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.

THE MONT BLANC (2) BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

The Mont Blanc (4,808.13 m - 15,776.7 ft)

France, Italy border

In Sunset on MontBlanc seen from Le Buet, oil on card

The painter
Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s. He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.


The mountain
The Mont Blanc (4,808.73 m -15,777 ft) or Monte Bianco, both meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps and the highest in Europe after the Caucasus peaks. It is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence. The Mont Blanc is one of the Seven Summit, which includes the highest mountains of each of the seven continents. Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first achieved on April 30, 1985 by Richard Bass. The 7 highest summits, (which are obviously 8 with 2 in Europe !) are :
Mount Everest (8,848m), Aconcagua (6,961m), Mt Denali or Mc Kinley (6,194m), Kilimandjaro (5,895m), Mt Elbrus (5,642m), Mount Vinson (4,892m) and Mount Kosciuszko (2,228m) in Australia.
The mountain lies in a range called the Graian Alps, between the regions of Aosta Valley, Italy, and Savoie and Haute-Savoie, France. The location of the summit is on the watershed line between the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy and the valleys of Montjoie, and Arve in France. The Mont Blanc massif is popular for mountaineering, hiking, skiing, and snowboarding.
The three towns and their communes which surround Mont Blanc are Courmayeur in Aosta Valley, Italy, and Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix in Haute-Savoie, France. A cable car ascends and crosses the mountain range from Courmayeur to Chamonix, through the Col du Géant. Constructed beginning in 1957 and completed in 1965, the 11.6 km (7¼ mi) Mont Blanc Tunnel runs beneath the mountain between these two countries and is one of the major trans-Alpine transport routes.
Since the French Revolution, the issue of the ownership of the summit has been debated.
From 1416 to 1792, the entire mountain was within the Duchy of Savoy. In 1723 the Duke of Savoy, Victor Amadeus II, acquired the Kingdom of Sardinia. The resulting state of Sardinia was to become preeminent in the Italian unification.[ In September 1792, the French revolutionary Army of the Alps under Anne-Pierre de Montesquiou-Fézensac seized Savoy without much resistance and created a department of the Mont-Blanc. In a treaty of 15 May 1796, Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia was forced to cede Savoy and Nice to France. A Sardinian Atlas map of 1869 showing the summit lying two thirds in Italy and one third in France.
Although the Franco-Italian border was redefined in both 1947 and 1963, the commission made up of both Italians and French ignored the Mont Blanc issue. In the early 21st century, administration of the mountain is shared between the Italian town of Courmayeur and the French town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, although the larger part of the mountain lies within the commune of the latter.

_______________________________________
2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

THE BUET PAINTED BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

 Mount Buet  (3, 096 m - 10, 157 ft)  

 France 

 In Le Buet vu du glacier d'Argentière, oil on canvas,  John Mitchell Fine Paintings Gallery, London

The mountain 
Mount Buet  (3, 096 m - 10, 157 ft)    also called simply The Buet is a summit of the massif of Giffre, in Haute-Savoie. It is also called the Mont Blanc des Dames (The Ladies Mont Blanc). It dominates the Cirque des Fonds.  From its summit, the highest in the department except  the Mont-Blanc massif, offers an exceptional view of the latter, as well as the red needles and the Haut-Giffre. The Buet played an important role in the birth of mountaineering and the conquest of Mont Blanc in the 18th century.
 The first a ascension took place in 1765 by Genevan scientist Jean André Deluc and his brother. The brothers Deluc reach first the summit of the Buet, on the side of Sixt in 1770. They conduct a series of experiments, including the calculation of the time required to bring water to a boil at this altitude. They are the first to use the barometer to measure an altitude. This epic is considered the first climb in the high mountains in the Alps. Six years later, in 1776, Horace-Bénédict de Saussure took the route and made preliminary observations to the ascent of Mont Blanc.
In 1910, the Grenairon refuge was built on Mount Buet. Destroyed in 1984 by a fire, it was rebuilt in 1985 in the same way.

The painter 

Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.

Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s.  He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.

His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.

By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.

In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images. 

_______________________________
2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

MONT BLANC IN SUMMER BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

The Mont Blanc (4,808.13 m - 15,776.7 ft)

France, Italy border

In  Le Mont-Blanc et la Vallée de Chamonix en été, huile sur carton, (15 x 24 cm) John Mitchell Fine paintings,  London

The mountain 
The Mont Blanc (4,808.73 m -15,777 ft) or Monte Bianco, both meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps and the highest in Europe after the Caucasus peaks. It is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence. The Mont Blanc is one of the Seven Summit, which includes the highest mountains of each of the seven continents. Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first achieved on April 30, 1985 by Richard Bass. The 7 highest summits, (which are obviously 8 with 2 in Europe !) are :
Mount Everest (8,848m), Aconcagua (6,961m), Mt Denali or Mc Kinley (6,194m), Kilimandjaro (5,895m), Mt Elbrus (5,642m), Mount Vinson (4,892m) and Mount Kosciuszko (2,228m) in Australia.
The mountain lies in a range called the Graian Alps, between the regions of Aosta Valley, Italy, and Savoie and Haute-Savoie, France. The location of the summit is on the watershed line between the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy and the valleys of Montjoie, and Arve in France. The Mont Blanc massif is popular for mountaineering, hiking, skiing, and snowboarding.
The three towns and their communes which surround Mont Blanc are Courmayeur in Aosta Valley, Italy, and Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix in Haute-Savoie, France. A cable car ascends and crosses the mountain range from Courmayeur to Chamonix, through the Col du Géant. Constructed beginning in 1957 and completed in 1965, the 11.6 km (7¼ mi) Mont Blanc Tunnel runs beneath the mountain between these two countries and is one of the major trans-Alpine transport routes.
Since the French Revolution, the issue of the ownership of the summit has been debated.
From 1416 to 1792, the entire mountain was within the Duchy of Savoy. In 1723 the Duke of Savoy, Victor Amadeus II, acquired the Kingdom of Sardinia. The resulting state of Sardinia was to become preeminent in the Italian unification.[ In September 1792, the French revolutionary Army of the Alps under Anne-Pierre de Montesquiou-Fézensac seized Savoy without much resistance and created a department of the Mont-Blanc. In a treaty of 15 May 1796, Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia was forced to cede Savoy and Nice to France. A Sardinian Atlas map of 1869 showing the summit lying two thirds in Italy and one third in France.
Although the Franco-Italian border was redefined in both 1947 and 1963, the commission made up of both Italians and French ignored the Mont Blanc issue. In the early 21st century, administration of the mountain is shared between the Italian town of Courmayeur and the French town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, although the larger part of the mountain lies within the commune of the latter.

The painter 
Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s. He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.
_______________________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

THE MONT BLANC BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

The Mont Blanc (4,808.13 m - 15,776.7 ft)

 France, Italy border

 In  The Shadow of Mont Blanc at Sunset painted from the summit on 6th August 1873, 

oil on card laid on board

About the painting 

This is a most extraordinary painting not only because it is the first depiction of a mountain shadow from a summit in art but also because it has a unique and unreal atmosphere. 

Loppé, too, had been the first person to paint from the summit of Mont Blanc in 1861. In total, he painted from the top on eleven separate occasions.

Seen from their summits, almost all mountain shadows look triangular regardless of the mountain’s shape. This is caused by the perspective of looking along a long tunnel of shadowed air. The tunnel’s cross section is the shape of the mountain but its end is so far away that it looks insignificant. The finite size of the sun causes the fully shaded parts of the shadow to converge and taper away, and in Mont Blanc’s case, this is over a distance of two to three hundred miles.
As Loppé painted this remarkable meteorological scene at 7.30 in the evening, the temperature would have begun to plummet to around -15 degrees Celsius. His climbing companions became concerned for their safety as recounted in chapter XI, Sunset on Mont Blanc in The Playground of Europe.
In 1894, in the introduction to that book, one of the best known and loved about the Alps, Leslie Stephen wrote a dedication to Loppé:
" Twenty-one years ago, we climbed Mont Blanc together to watch the sunset from its summit. Less than a year ago, we observed the same phenomenon from the foot of the mountain. The intervening years have probably made little difference in the sunset. If they have made some difference in our powers of reaching the best point of view, they have, I hope, diminished neither our admiration of such spectacles, nor our pleasure in each other’s companionship. If, indeed, I have retained my love of the Alps, it has been in no small degree owing to you. 
The huge shadow looking ever more strange and magical struck the distant Becca di Nona and then climbed into the dark region where the broader shadow of the world was rising into the eastern sky. By some singular effect of perspective rays of darkness seemed to be converging from above our heads to a point immediately above the apex of the shadowy cone. For a time it seemed that there was a kind of anti-sun in the east pouring out not light but deep shadow as it rose." 

From the book Loppé  peintre-alpiniste" by William Mitchell © John Mitchell Fine Paintings, London, 2018  

Photo taken from the summit of  Mont Blanc at sunset
 showing the cone of the shadow precisely like Gabriel Loppé
painted it  on  6th August 1873 - Courtesy William Mitchell

The painter 

Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.

Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s.  He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.

His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.

By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.

In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images. 

THE MER DE GLACE AND GRAND CHARMOZ PAINTED BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

 

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913),
Les Aiguilles du Grand Charmoz (3,445m -11,302ft)
France

In La Mer de Glace et les Grands Charmoz, Chamonix, Huile sur toile, 

Courtesy John Mitchell Fine Arts, London, and Artcurial Paris,

 
The painter
Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s. He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images. 

 
The mountain
The Aiguille des Grands Charmoz (3,445 m), is one of the Chamonix needles in the Mont Blanc massif. It is made up of a ridge bristling with " gendarmes", including La Carrée, and Bâton Wicks. The first ascent was done on August 9, 1885 by H. Dunod and P. Vignon with the guides J. Desailloux, F. Folliguet, F. and G. Simond, by the corridor Charmoz-Grépon. It is today the normal way of descent, the climb generally being made by the south-west slope and the northwestern edge (AD +), climbed 15 July 1880 by Albert F. Mummery with Alexandre Burgener and Benedikt Venetz, which stopped before the summit at point 3 435 m. The Aiguille des Grands Charmoz is linked with the Aiguille du Grépon for the crossing of Charmoz-Grépon (D), one of the great rocky classics of the Mont Blanc massif. The first crossing was done by Laurent Croux in 1904. The first ascent of the north face, via the needle of the Republic, and crossing the edges of the Charmoz was done by Raymond Leininger and G. Bicavelle in 1946. In 1974, Jean-Claude Droyer succeeded the solo climb of the western pillar of the Grand Charmoz (Cordier lane opened in 1970 by Patrick Cordier).
The Mt Blanc is one of the 7 highest summits in earth, (which are obviously 8 with 2 in Europe !):
Mount Everest (8,848m), Aconcagua (6,961m), Mt Denali or Mc Kinley (6,194m), Kilimandjaro (5,895m), Mt Elbrus (5,642m), Mount Vinson (4,892m) and Mount Kosciuszko (2,228m) in Australia.

The Glacier
The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is an alpine valley glacier located on the northern slope of the Mont-Blanc massif. It is formed by the confluence of the Tacul glacier and the Leschaux glacier and flows into the Arve valley, on the territory of the municipality of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, giving rise to the Arveyron. The glacier is seven kilometers long, its supply basin has a maximum length of twelve kilometers and an area of ​​40 km2, while its thickness reaches 300 meters. In the middle of the 20th century, an ice cave was pierced for the first time in the Mer de Glace. Due to the attraction's success, a cable car was put into service in 1961 to access it, then replaced by a cable car in 1988. Since 1973, an underground hydroelectric power station has been using the meltwater from the glacier.
Almost a million visitors go to Montenvers every year to contemplate the Mer de Glace. During peak periods, half of them visit the ice cave. Three museums are also located on the site. Skiing is possible from the Aiguille du Midi in winter. However, the retreat of the glacier, measured since 1860-1870, causes a loss of thickness of 120 meters in a century in its terminal part. It causes difficulties at the level of the ice cave, where more and more steps are necessary to reach the gondola, and requires considering its upstream movement, like the catchment of the hydroelectric power station in 2011.
_______________________________
2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PEINT PAR GABRIEL LOPPÉ

 

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)
Matterhorn / Cervin/ Cervino  (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse - Italie

In " Le Cervin vu de Riffelsee, huile sur toile, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London

 

 

La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses. 

Le peintre
Gabriel Loppé est un peintre français, photographe et alpiniste qui est devenu le premier étranger membre du Club alpin britannique de Londres. À 21 ans, il grimpe une petite montagne dans le Languedoc et y trouve un groupe de peintres qui en esquisse le sommet. Ce jour-là, il trouve sa vocation. Il se rend ensuite à Genève où il rencontre le chef de file suisse des peintres paysagistes, Alexandre Calame (1810-1864). Loppé s'initie à l'alpinisme à Grindelwald  dans les années 1850 et se fait facilement de nombreux amis parmi les alpinistes anglais en France et en Suisse. Bien qu'il soit souvent étiqueté comme un élève de Calame et de son rival François Diday, Loppé est plutôt un artiste autodidacte. Il est devenu le premier peintre à travailler à haute altitude, profitant de ses expéditions et gagnant le droit d'être considéré comme le fondateur de l'école des peintres-alpinistes, qui s'est établie en Savoie  à la fin du 19e siècle. Ses peintures sont aujourd'hui célèbres pour leur atmosphère et leur spontanéité  et  sont exposées régulièrement à Londres et Paris.  En 1896, Loppé aura passé plus de cinquante saisons d'escalade et de peinture à Chamonix. Parmi les disciples notables de Loppé, on compte Charles-Henri Contencin (1875-1955) et Jacques Fourcy (1900-1991). Ils se retrouvèrent ensemble pour la première ascension du Mont Mallet (un sommet du massif du Mont-Blanc) par la voie des Grandes Jorasses à Chamonix, Loppé fit également plus de quarante ascensions du Mont Blanc au cours de sa carrière d'alpiniste, qui a duré jusqu'à la fin des années 1890. Il a souvent fait des croquis à l'huile des sommets alpins, y compris un panorama depuis le sommet du Mont Blanc. Une exposition itinérante nommée "Voyages en montagne" a été consacrée à l'œuvre de l'artiste en 2005-2006 aux musées d'Annecy, de Chambéry et de Gap.
Dans ses dernières années, Loppé est pris d'une fascination pour la photographie et a même beaucoup innové dans ce domaine. Sa photographie de la Tour Eiffel frappée par la foudre fait maintenant partie des collections du Musée d'Orsay à Paris.

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2023 - Wandering Vertexes ....
Errant au-dessus des Sommets Silencieux...
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

THE MONT BLANC (2) BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

The Mont Blanc (4,808.13 m - 15,776.7 ft)

 France, Italy border

In Sur le col du Géant – Soleil levant sur le Mont Blanc,  oil on canvas, 51 x 35.5cm,   1890,   Courtesy William Mitchell Gallery, London

The painter 

Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.

Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s.  He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.

His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.

By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.

In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images. 

The mountain 

Mont Blanc (in French) or Monte Bianco (in Italian), both meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps and the highest in Europe after the Caucasus peaks. It rises 4,808.73 m (15,777 ft) above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence.  The Mont Blanc is one of the Seven Summit, which includes the highest mountains of each of the seven continents. Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first achieved on April 30, 1985 by Richard Bass.  The 7 highest summit, (which are obviously 8 with 2 in Europe !) are :  

Mount Everest (8,848m), Aconcagua (6,961m), Mt Denali or Mc Kinley (6,194m),  Kilimandjaro (5,895m), Mt Elbrus (5,642m), Mount Vinson (4,892m) and Mount Kosciuszko  (2,228m) in Australia.

The mountain lies in a range called the Graian Alps, between the regions of Aosta Valley, Italy, and Savoie and Haute-Savoie, France. The location of the summit is on the watershed line between the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy and the valleys of Montjoie, and Arve in France. The Mont Blanc massif is popular for mountaineering, hiking, skiing, and snowboarding.

The three towns and their communes which surround Mont Blanc are Courmayeur in Aosta Valley, Italy, and Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix in Haute-Savoie, France.  A cable car ascends and crosses the mountain range from Courmayeur to Chamonix, through the Col du Géant. Constructed beginning in 1957 and completed in 1965, the 11.6 km (7¼ mi) Mont Blanc Tunnel runs beneath the mountain between these two countries and is one of the major trans-Alpine transport routes.

Since the French Revolution, the issue of the ownership of the summit has been debated.

More about The Mont Blanc 

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau