LA MEIJE & LES ECRINS BY LÉON & LEVY- LL

LÉON & LEVY - LL (1864-1917)

La Meije (3,984m - 13, 071ft)

France (Isère)

In La Meije et les Ecrins,  Postcard, 1895, MUCEM, Marseille,  France  

The mountains 
La Meije (3,984m- 13, 071ft) is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities, and also dominates the view west of the Col du Lautaret.
More about La Meije

The photographers
Moyse Leon and Isaac (known as Georges) Lévy began as assistants within the Parisian photographic studio 'Ferrier-Soulier' under the Second Empire. 

They founded their own studio in Paris  in 1864 and sold prints on albumen paper, mainly stereoscopic prints, signed Léon and Lévy 'L.L.'. 

The Leon & Levy firm took part in the 1867 Universal Exhibition where they won the Emperor's Gold Medal. In 1874, the Leon and Levy studio became J. Levy and Co., Isaac Georges Levy being the only company director from that date. On the arrival of Georges Lévy's two sounds in 1895, Ernest and Lucien, the company grew and became Lévy & fils and the photographs conserved the 'L' signature and  the company merged with the publisher Neurdein Frères ("ND Phot.") .

This photographic firm had an intense period of activity, compiling tours (Spain, Portugal, Morocco, America) as well as postcards, all between 1864 and 1917, when the business came to an end.

After the death of Isaac Lévy in 1913, the company  became "Lévy and Neurdein united".

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2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

BARRE DES ECRINS BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

The Barre des Écrins (4,102 m - 13, 458ft)

France (Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur)

 In The Barre des Ecrins seen from above the Glacier Blanc Massif des Ecrins, France- 46 x5 6cm, oil on canvas, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London 

The mountain,

The Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) is a mountain in the French Alps with a peak at 4102m altitude. It is the highest peak of the Massif des Écrins and the Dauphiné Alps and the most southerly alpine peak in Europe that is higher than 4,000 m. It is the only 4,000 m mountain in France that lies outside the Mont Blanc Massif. Before the annexation of Savoy in 1860 it was the highest mountain in France.

The Barre des Écrins is the highest peak in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region including all of Occitania and the Southern Alps. It is located in the commune of Pelvoux and is situated near the Drainage divide between the Durance and the Vénéon. This divide passes 250 metres west of the summit, along the ridge that leads to the summit of the sub-peak Dôme des Écrins (4,088 m). The south face of the mountain is rocky while the north face is ice as it is the starting point of the Glacier Blanc. The mountain is surrounded by four glaciers: to the north-west is the Bonne Pierre glacier, to the north-east the Glacier Blanc, to the south-west the Glacier du Vallon de la Pilatte, and finally in the south-east the Glacier Noir. It is separated from the Snow Dome of Écrins (4,015 m) by the Lory Gap (3974 m) to the west, the Barre Noir (3,751 m) by the Écrins Gap (3, 661 m) to the north-east and by Fifre (3,699 m) via the Col des Avalanches (3,499 m) to the south.

The Écrins were discovered by geographers belatedly in the 19th century when they were the highest point in France.

The Englishmen A. W Moore, Horace Walker, and Edward Whymper, guided by Michel Croz from Chamonix and Christian Almer from Switzerland, made the first ascent of the Barre des Écrins on 25 June 1864. They cut steps on the north face of the Barre until they reached the top of the eastern edge via the Whymper corridor. They then reached the top of this high ridge which was composed of very unstable rocks. Edward Whymper described the ascension in his book Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69.

William Auguste Coolidge made the first direct climb up the north face of the Barre des Ecrins in July 1870 by cutting 500 steps.

The first ascent without a guide is credited to Frederick Gardiner in 1878 accompanied by Charles and Lawrence Pilkington.

The southern face was climbed for the first time in 1880 by Pierre Gaspard together with Henri Duhamel. The south pillar, a part of the Black glacier ending at the top, was climbed for the first time in 1944 by the famous couple of climbers Jeanne and Jean Franco.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.
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2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

LA MEIJE BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

La Meije (3,984m - 13, 071ft)

France (Isère)

  In La Meije et  l'Oratoire du Chazelet, oil on canvas,  1946

The mountain 

La Meije (3,984m- 13, 071ft) is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities, and also dominates the view west of the Col du Lautaret. It is the second highest mountain of the Écrins after Barre des Écrins. The central and second highest summit has five teeth, the highest of which is known as Le Doigt de Dieu (The Finger of God). This summit was reached from the northeast on June 28, 1870, by Christian and Ulrich Almer and Christian Gertsch, guiding Meta Brevoort and W.A.B. Coolidge. The ridge from the central to the main, Western peak, which is 13 meters higher, was considered an insurmountable obstacle for the next 15 years.
The Western true summit of La Meije, the Grand Pic, is notorious in that there is no "easy" path to its top and it was the last major peak in the Alps to be summited. The first ascent was eventually made from the southwest on 16 August 1877 by father and son Pierre Gaspard and their client Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau. Their approach, over the south buttress Arête du Promontoire and further over the Glacier Carré and the southwest face of the Grand Pic is now the normal route.
On July 26, 1885, Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Otto and Emil Zsigmondy made the first traverse from the central to the main summit, via the "insurmountable" gap that is now known as the Brèche Zsigmondy, in what is still considered a classic route though thoroughly modified by a may 1964 rockfall. The traverse in the opposite direction was accomplished 6 years later by Ulrich Almer, Fritz Boss and J.H. Gibson.
The south face is widely considered to be the most difficult of La Meije. Within two weeks after their successful traverse, the Zsigmondy brothers, together with Karl Schulz, tried to reach the Brèche Zsigmondy over the south face, but Emil died in the attempt. The first successful attempt was not until twenty-seven years later, in 1912 by Angelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, and the brothers Guido and Max Mayer, while a direct route over the south face to the Grand Pic was only climbed in 1935 and that to the Central Pic in 1951.
For mountaineering, La Meije can be approached from two mountain refuges:
- The refuge du Promontoire at 3,082 metres, situated at the bottom of the steep south buttress of the peak, and allows access to routes on the south face of the mountain.
- The refuge de l'Aigle at 3,450 metres, situated at the top of the Tabuchet glacier, and allows access to the north face.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

LA MEIJE BY AUGUSTE RODIN

-

AUGUSTE RODIN (1840-1917)  

La Meije (3,984m- 13, 071ft)

France (Isère)

In Le Glacier, crayon au graphite, estompe, watercolor, n° 4225, Musée Rodin, Paris 

(La Meije view from the Col du Lautaret) 

The mountain 

La Meije (3,984m- 13, 071ft) is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities, and also dominates the view west of the Col du Lautaret. It is the second highest mountain of the Écrins after Barre des Écrins. The central and second highest summit has five teeth, the highest of which is known as Le Doigt de Dieu (The Finger of God). This summit was reached from the northeast on June 28, 1870, by Christian and Ulrich Almer and Christian Gertsch, guiding Meta Brevoort and W.A.B. Coolidge. The ridge from the central to the main, Western peak, which is 13 meters higher, was considered an insurmountable obstacle for the next 15 years.
The Western true summit of La Meije, the Grand Pic, is notorious in that there is no "easy" path to its top and it was the last major peak in the Alps to be summited. The first ascent was eventually made from the southwest on 16 August 1877 by father and son Pierre Gaspard and their client Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau. Their approach, over the south buttress Arête du Promontoire and further over the Glacier Carré and the southwest face of the Grand Pic is now the normal route.
On July 26, 1885, Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Otto and Emil Zsigmondy made the first traverse from the central to the main summit, via the "insurmountable" gap that is now known as the Brèche Zsigmondy, in what is still considered a classic route though thoroughly modified by a may 1964 rockfall. The traverse in the opposite direction was accomplished 6 years later by Ulrich Almer, Fritz Boss and J.H. Gibson.
The south face is widely considered to be the most difficult of La Meije. Within two weeks after their successful traverse, the Zsigmondy brothers, together with Karl Schulz, tried to reach the Brèche Zsigmondy over the south face, but Emil died in the attempt. The first successful attempt was not until twenty-seven years later, in 1912 by Angelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, and the brothers Guido and Max Mayer, while a direct route over the south face to the Grand Pic was only climbed in 1935 and that to the Central Pic in 1951.
For mountaineering, La Meije can be approached from two mountain refuges:
- The refuge du Promontoire at 3,082 metres, situated at the bottom of the steep south buttress of the peak, and allows access to routes on the south face of the mountain.
- The refuge de l'Aigle at 3,450 metres, situated at the top of the Tabuchet glacier, and allows access to the north face.

The artist

François Auguste René Rodin known as Auguste Rodin was a French sculptor. Although Rodin is generally considered the progenitor of modern sculpture, he did not set out to rebel against the past. He was schooled traditionally, took a craftsman-like approach to his work, and desired academic recognition, although he was never accepted into Paris's foremost school of art.

When Rodin does not sculpt, he draws. Auguste Rodin has created some 10,000 drawings among which more than 7,000 are preserved in the Rodin Museum. It is very rare that the drawing serves as a study, a project for a sculpture or a monument. The work of the draftsman is developed in parallel with that of the sculptor. If, for reasons of conservation, the works on paper can only be shown very punctually, they are not a minor part of the art of Rodin, who affirms at the end of his life in his notebooks : « My drawings are the key to my work, my sculpture is only drawing in all dimensions ».  Beyond the simple preparatory work, drawing is for Rodin another practice, another field of artistic reflection that he discovers even before sculpture, at the age of ten.  Inventor of the first draft, Rodin takes the habit of letting the model evolve in front of him without indicating artificial pose, so as to capture on the sheet the natural movement.

Rodin also practiced the engraving which allowed him to diffuse his drawings and his sculptures. These engravings are gathered in an album.  He produced about 1,000 engravings. Auguste-Hilaire Léveillé is one of the engravers who reproduced a number of his statues.

Rodin practiced  also photography and used it abundantly. He had a team of photographers, such as Gaudanzio Marconi, Karl Bodmer, Victor Pannelier and Freuler who photograph the models, sculptures finalized or in the course of work. These photographs serve as blanks, but also for corrections, Rodin underlining or retouching some part with pencil, pen, brush or wash, on the photographic prints of his sculptures. They serve to dialogue with the practitioners as can be read in the correspondence with Bourdelle or to correct the drawings.

2017 - A Still Life Collection 
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

PIC SANS NOM PAINTED BY EMILE APPAY

EMILE APPAY (1876-1935)

 Pic Sans Nom (3,913 m -12,838 ft)

France

In Pic Sans Nom seen from Pic Coolidge, oil on canvas, 

The mountain 

The Pic Sans Nom ( (3,913 m -12,838 ft))(Nameless Peak) is located in the Massif des Ecrins in the French Alps. It lies in the middle of the steep mountain mass that runs south-west from Mont Pelvoux to the Ailefroide. Its steep and extensive northern precipices are bounded by the Glacier Noir; its southern slopes, providing the only relatively easy means of access, are bounded by the Glacier du Coup de Sabre and the Glacier de Sialouze. The Pic du Coup de Sabre (3,699 m) to its south-west is considered part of the Pic Sans Nom.

The north face of Pic Sans Nom is above Glacier Noir and is separated from Pelvoux and Ailefroides by ice couloirs (Pelvoux pass and Glacier Noir pass). 

There is an other couloir (NW couloir ) on north face which comes very close to the summit.

There is no easy route to climb Pic Sans nom and most of them are very difficult. Pic Sans Nom is a domain for rock climbers in high mountain.

The normal route is on SE side on snow and bad rocks.

SE route has a PD cotation.

1877 - First clim by JB Colgrove and Richard Pendlebury and Josef Gabriel Spectenhauser, July 10

1936 - North Ridge Raymond Leininger Jean Vernet Vernet Georges and Jean-Antoine Morin

1976 - First solo winter peak Sans Nom, north face (Russenberger way), by Pierre Beghin

The painter 

Émile Appay was a French painter whose landscapes (watercolors and oils) are in the style of vedute.

Émile Charles Appay spent his childhood in Paris' 15th arrondissement. His father was a printer lithographer Charles Appay which explains his taste for art.  He was a student of Henri Harpignies (1819-1916) and Paul Lecomte (1842-1920). He married in 1900 and had two children. He was friends with André Derain and they loved biking together.  He also loved to go fishing and he often painted river or fishing scenes with his friends. It was recalled at the age of 38 years as a soldier during the war 14-18. It will make many drawings zones combat1. Especially in the Aisne where he was posted in 1916 in the region of Faucoucourt or Estrées (Battle of the Somme).

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2016 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

LES ROUIES PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO STELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Les Rouies (3, 589 m -11,7 75 ft)

France

Photographed in 1900

The artist

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2  in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
Source:
 -  The Georgian Museum of Photography

The Mountain 
Les Rouies (3589 meters) is a mountain of Massif des Écrins (Ecrins Range) situated in Isère (France). The highest top of Les Rouies is very central to the rest of the range but rarely visible. It is the meeting point of three major lines of ridges that separate the valleys of Lavey, Gioberney and Chardon. It is towards the latter that flows mainly ice which largely cover the northeast slope of the summit, in developing the glacier of Les Rouies.
The summit itself and most of its eastern slopes consist of gneiss type Lavey strongly enough migmatized.
The glacier of Les Rouies is nowadays suspended above the glacier. It continues eastward for 3 kilometers although it is not yet powered by the serac falls from the first.
The jump between these two glaciers is reinforced by an NS band hornblende gneiss which continues south of the Pass of Les Rouies in the high slopes of the Circus of Gioberney where it chokes down (so it is likely the heart of a syncline).
Just a few decades the ice overflowed laterally to the south (side Gioberney), from the Pass of  Les Rouies towards the Circus of Lauzon, a glacier couloir which is now reduced to two ice corridor.
To the east of the Pass of Les Rouies the edge of the Peak of Vacivier is again integrally formed by gneisses of Lavey.  It is connected at right angles to Peaks du Says at the north ridge of Mount Gioberney which corresponds to a hornblende gneiss new band oriented N-S.
The western side of Rouies is formed by a steep line overlooking the upstream part of the valley of Lavey.  These steep follow at almost exactly the route of the great eastern Faille de Fétoules that stilted the Lavey gneiss its eastern chamber of several hundred meters, so these gneiss dominate there amphibolites circus and the Pointe de la Muande, extension of those of Olan, which normally constitutes the cover.  This major break, NS azimuth, the other continues south through the fault of Gazonné Peak in the Morges range, where it affects the sedimentary rocks and is also dotted with a few outcrops of Triassic: This is the evidence that this accident has worked at the "alpine" distortions (that is to say post-Hercynian).
The melting of glaciers that surround the foot of the steep western Rouies reached in the 1950s, the bedrock of the navel * * deepening of the glacier of the Lavey, now fills the Lake Rouies.
ascent
Climbing routes 
Les Rouies is a classic Ecrins Range climb. Leaving the shelter of Le Pigeonnier,  climb is done in a 4 to 5 hours up and  2 to 3 hours down.  This is a relatively long and varied climb. The passage of Les Rouies which gives access to the glacier can be tricky depending on the year. From the retreat of the glacier, the steep corridor passage can be avoided by the left; the route that we propose goes through the steep corridor and down the left slope. Conditions can change with the seasons ... the view at the top is great.
Sources:
-  Geol-Alp 
- Virtual Mountain