MOUNT STANLEY BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA  (1859-1943) 

Mount Stanley (5,109 m -16,762 ft)

Uganda - Congo border

photographed in 1906 during the Duke of Abruzzi expedition

The mountain 

Mount Stanley  (5,109 m -16,762 ft) is located in the Rwenzori range and is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m -19,340ft) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m - 17,057ft). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site. 

Mt. Stanley consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are : 

Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft), Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft).

Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.

The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa.  As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGOs have supported the management and conservation of the property. A General Management Plan guides management operations on-site. Key challenges to address include illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming, human population pressure adjacent to the property and management of waste generated through tourism operations. UWA is addressing the above threats through resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The long-term maintenance of the integrity of the property will be achieved through sustainable financing, ecological monitoring, continued collaboration with key stakeholders andregional cooperation.

Climbing

The Bujuku valley is enclosed within a steep triangle formed by Mount Stanley and Mounts Speke and Baker, the second and third highest Ruwenzori peaks respectively. The worst part about climbing in the Ruwenzori is the approach, as four days of jungle and bogs guard the mountains on both the Zaire and Uganda sides. There are, however, good trails in the mountains, and plenty of huts for overnight. From Mutsori, Zaire, local tribesman are available as guides or porters.

Sources: 

- Peakware- World Mountain Encyclopedia

- UNESCO world Heritage Site

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at  K2   in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
Source:
 -  The Georgian Museum of Photography

LES ROUIES PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO STELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Les Rouies (3, 589 m -11,7 75 ft)

France

Photographed in 1900

The artist

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2  in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
Source:
 -  The Georgian Museum of Photography

The Mountain 
Les Rouies (3589 meters) is a mountain of Massif des Écrins (Ecrins Range) situated in Isère (France). The highest top of Les Rouies is very central to the rest of the range but rarely visible. It is the meeting point of three major lines of ridges that separate the valleys of Lavey, Gioberney and Chardon. It is towards the latter that flows mainly ice which largely cover the northeast slope of the summit, in developing the glacier of Les Rouies.
The summit itself and most of its eastern slopes consist of gneiss type Lavey strongly enough migmatized.
The glacier of Les Rouies is nowadays suspended above the glacier. It continues eastward for 3 kilometers although it is not yet powered by the serac falls from the first.
The jump between these two glaciers is reinforced by an NS band hornblende gneiss which continues south of the Pass of Les Rouies in the high slopes of the Circus of Gioberney where it chokes down (so it is likely the heart of a syncline).
Just a few decades the ice overflowed laterally to the south (side Gioberney), from the Pass of  Les Rouies towards the Circus of Lauzon, a glacier couloir which is now reduced to two ice corridor.
To the east of the Pass of Les Rouies the edge of the Peak of Vacivier is again integrally formed by gneisses of Lavey.  It is connected at right angles to Peaks du Says at the north ridge of Mount Gioberney which corresponds to a hornblende gneiss new band oriented N-S.
The western side of Rouies is formed by a steep line overlooking the upstream part of the valley of Lavey.  These steep follow at almost exactly the route of the great eastern Faille de Fétoules that stilted the Lavey gneiss its eastern chamber of several hundred meters, so these gneiss dominate there amphibolites circus and the Pointe de la Muande, extension of those of Olan, which normally constitutes the cover.  This major break, NS azimuth, the other continues south through the fault of Gazonné Peak in the Morges range, where it affects the sedimentary rocks and is also dotted with a few outcrops of Triassic: This is the evidence that this accident has worked at the "alpine" distortions (that is to say post-Hercynian).
The melting of glaciers that surround the foot of the steep western Rouies reached in the 1950s, the bedrock of the navel * * deepening of the glacier of the Lavey, now fills the Lake Rouies.
ascent
Climbing routes 
Les Rouies is a classic Ecrins Range climb. Leaving the shelter of Le Pigeonnier,  climb is done in a 4 to 5 hours up and  2 to 3 hours down.  This is a relatively long and varied climb. The passage of Les Rouies which gives access to the glacier can be tricky depending on the year. From the retreat of the glacier, the steep corridor passage can be avoided by the left; the route that we propose goes through the steep corridor and down the left slope. Conditions can change with the seasons ... the view at the top is great.
Sources:
-  Geol-Alp 
- Virtual Mountain

CHOGOLISA (2) PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA  (1859-1943)

 Chogolisa (7,668 m - 25,157 ft)  

Pakistan

In  Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of Abruzzi climbing Chogolisa, 
Photographed  during the 1909 historical expedition of the Duke of Abruzzi
© The Sella Foundation

The mountain 

Chogolisa  (7,668 m- 25,157 ft). also called  Bride Peak is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face  is Chogolisa I (7,668 m- 25,157 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side is Chogolisa II, once named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.
In 1909, a expedition led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m (photo above). Bad weather stopped the team from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.
Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SE ridge. On June 27 a sudden snow storm forced them to retreat and on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.
In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

The Photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori
- Recognition at K2  and Chogolisa in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2- Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.

___________________________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

MOEBIUS PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Moebius Peak (4,916 m-16,130 ft) 

Uganda - Congo border

1. In Moebius peak from the south east ridge of the Alexandra Peak, 1908,  

hand painted photographs, Ruwenzori album

2.  In Moebius peak from the west, 1908, hand painted photographs, Ruwenzori album

The mountain 

Moebius Peak (4,916 m-16,130 ft) is one of the nine peaks constituting Mount Stanley.  The two highest summits are Margherita (5,109 m-16,763 ft)  and Alexandra (5,091m - 16, 703ft) and the others under 5000 m: Albert, Savoia, Elena, Elizabeth, Philip, Moebius and Great Tooth.  
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by Duke of the Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy.

Mount Stanley is located in the Rwenzori range or Ruwenzori Range. It is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Kilimandjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at  K2  and Chogolisa in 1909 ;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.

- More informations about Vittorio Sella 

TRANGO TOWERS BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Trango Towers  (6,286 m - 23, 871ft) 

Pakistan

1. In The Baltoro Tower 1909's Himalaya expedition, photo, Vittorio Sella Foundation. 

The Mountain 
The Trango Towers (6,286 m - 20,623 ft) are a family of rock towers situated in Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of Pakistan. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the difficult granite. They are located north of Baltoro Glacier, and are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram range. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the east face of which features the world's greatest nearly vertical drop.

Full Wikipedia  entry  =>

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).

He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:

- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;

- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897

- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899

- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori

- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909

- In Morocco in 1925.

During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.

Full Wandering Vertexes entry  =>

___________________________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

SINIOLCHU PHOTOGRAPHED IN 1899 BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Siniolchu  (6,888 m -22,598 ft)

India (Sikkim) 

In Siniolchu  seen from  the Zemu  Glacier, silver gelatine print, 

396 x 297 mm, from an 18 x 24 plate), 1899. 

Fondazione Sella, Biella

The mountain 
Siniolchu  (6,888 m -22,598 ft) is one of the tallest mountains of the Indian state of Sikkim. Siniolchu is considered to be particularly aesthetically attractive, having been described by Douglas Freshfield as "the most superb triumph of mountain architecture and the most beautiful snow mountain in the world". It is situated near the green lake adjacent to Kangchenjunga, the highest peak in the state and third highest in the world. Siniolchu’s summit was first scaled in 1936 by the German climbers Karl Wien and Adi Gцttner.  Later Sikkimese Everest climber, Sonam Gyatso, also scaled the top.

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899 (photo above)
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori
- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.

Full Wandering Vertexes entry  =>

___________________________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

CHOGOLISA PHOTOGRAPHED BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA  (1859-1943)

 Chogolisa (7,668 m - 25,157 ft).  

Pakistan

Photographed  during the 1909 historical expedition of the Duke of Abruzzi 
© The Sella Foundation

The mountain 

Chogolisa  (7,668 m- 25,157 ft). also called  Bride Peak is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face  is Chogolisa I (7,668 m- 25,157 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side is Chogolisa II, once named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.
In 1909, a expedition led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m (photo above). Bad weather stopped the team from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.
Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SE ridge. On June 27 a sudden snow storm forced them to retreat and on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.
In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.
Source: 
- Chogolisa in Peakware.com

The Photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori
- Recognition at K2  and Chogolisa in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2- Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
Source:
 -  The Georgian Museum of Photography

MARGHERITA PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Margherita Peak (5,109 m-16,763 ft) 

Uganda - Congo border

1.  In Mount Stanley - Margherita peak from Alexandra peak, 1908, hand painted photographs 

2. In Mount Stanley- Margherita Peak southwest shoulder, 1908, hand painted photographs  

The mountain 

Margherita Peak (5,109 m-16,763 ft) is the highest point of Mount Stanley which consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks : Alexandra, Albert, Savoia, Elena, Elizabeth, Philip, %peb ius and Great Tooth.  Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by Duke of the Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy.

Mount Stanley is located in the Rwenzori range or Ruwenzori Range. It is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Kilimandjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at  K2  and Chogolisa in 1909 ;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.

- More informations about Vittorio Sella 

ALEXANDRA PEAK AND MARGHERITA PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5, 091m - 16,703 ft)
Margherita Peak / mount stanley (5,109 m-16,763 ft)
Congo - Uganda border

  In Alexandra peak  and Margherita peak from the Stanley Plateau, photo, 1906

The mountain
Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft) is part of Mount Stanley located in the Rwenzori range, the highest mountain of both Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m -19,340ft) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m - 17,057ft).
Mount Stanley consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are :
Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft), Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft).
The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa. As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGOs have supported the management and conservation of the property. A General Management Plan guides management operations on-site. Key challenges to address include illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming, human population pressure adjacent to the property and management of waste generated through tourism operations. UWA is addressing the above threats through resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The long-term maintenance of the integrity of the property will be achieved through sustainable financing, ecological monitoring, continued collaboration with key stakeholders and regional cooperation.

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888) and Les Rouies (1900).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2 in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram, he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II. His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain. His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags. His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder." Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
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2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

MOUNT SPEKE BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943), 

Mount Speke  (4,890m -16, 040ft)  

Uganda

In Mount Speke from Edward Peak, gelatine photo, 1908,  from the book  Ruwenzori, 

The Library  of Santa Barbara  College of The University of California  

The mountain

Mount Speke (4,890m -16, 040ft) lies in the Ruwenzori Mountains National Park in Uganda and is the second highest mountain in this range. Together with Mount Stanley and Mount Baker, it forms a triangle enclosing the upper Bujuku Valley. The nearest peak is Mount Stanley, which is 3.55 kilometres (2.21 mi) to the south-southwest.  

The mountains lie within an area called 'The Mountains of the Moon'.

All mountains in this range consist of multiple jagged peaks. Mount Speke's summits are Vittorio Emanuele (4,890 m -16,040 ft); Ensonga  (4,865 m - 15,961 ft); Johnston (4,834 m -15,860 ft); and Trident (4,572 m- 15,000 ft). The names were chosen in respect for the Italian royal family in the memory of the  Duke of the Abruzzi  (future King of Italy) who climbed all the peaks in the Rwenzori range.

The people living on the mountains call the 'Rwenzori', which means 'rain maker' or 'rain mountains' in the Bakonjo language. The Baganda, who could see the mountains from far, used to call them 'Gambaragara', which means 'My Eyes Pain', a reference to the shining snow. The Bakonjo had their own names for the peaks in the Rwenzori range, however, as they had never climbed them, it was difficult to clarify which peak was which. For example, they had names for the three main peaks: Kiyanja, Duwoni and Ingomwimbi. The fact is that for the Bakonjo the high Rwenzori is the home of Kitasamba, the god who resides at the high altitudes and cannot be accessed.

Early European explorers visited the region in the search for the source of the Nile. This mountain was named after John Speke. While he never climbed this peak, Speke mapped the source of the White Nile in 1862.  All the mountain in this region are named after similar early explorers.

Due to the large amount of rainfall Mount Speke receives, it is criss-crossed by many rivers and streams. The vegetation tends to be quite thick. There is also a variety of wildlife, including elephants, chimpanzee, monkeys, leopards and antelope.

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).

He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:

- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;

- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897

- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899

- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori

- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909

- In Morocco in 1925.

During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.

Full Wandering Vertexes entry  =>

___________________________________________
2019 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

KARAKORAM RANGE PAINTED BY NICHOLAS ROERICH

NICHOLAS ROERICH (1874-1947),

Karakoram at K2 (8,611m - 28,251ft) 

Pakistan - India - China- Afghanistan- Tajikistan 

 In Karakoram from Pakistan, 1925-26, Nicolas Roerich  Museum NY

The mountain range 
The Karakoram is home to the four most closely located peaks over 8000m in height on earth: K2 (8,611 m  -28,251 ft), the second highest peak in the world, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The Karakoram, or Karakorum is a large mountain range spanning the borders of Pakistan, India, and China, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. It is located in the regions of Gilgit–Baltistan (Pakistan), Ladakh (India), and southern Xinjiang (China), and reaches the Wakhan Corridor (Afghanistan). A part of the complex of ranges from the Hindu Kush to the Himalayan Range, it is one of the Greater Ranges of Asia.
The range is about 500 km (311 mi) in length, and is the most heavily glaciated part of the world outside the polar regions. The Siachen Glacier at 76 kilometres (47 mi) and the Biafo Glacier at 63 kilometres (39 mi) rank as the world's second and third longest glaciers outside the polar regions.
The Karakoram is bounded on the northeast by the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, and on the north by the Pamir Mountains. The southern boundary of the Karakoram is formed, west to east, by the Gilgit, Indus, and Shyok Rivers, which separate the range from the northwestern end of the Himalaya range proper as these rivers converge southwestward towards the plains of Pakistan.
The Tashkurghan National Nature Reserve and the Pamir Wetlands National Nature Reserve in the Karalorun and Pamir mountains have been nominated for inclusion in UNESCO in 2010 by the National Commission of the People's Republic of China for UNESCO and has tentatively been added to the list.

The painter 
Nicholas Roerich known also as Nikolai Konstantinovich Rerikh (Никола́й Константи́нович Ре́рих) is quite an important figure of mountain paintings in the early 20th century.  He was a Russian painter, writer, archaeologist, theosophist, perceived by some in Russia as an enlightener, philosopher, and public figure. In his youth was he was quite influenced by a movement in Russian society around the occult and was interested in hypnosis and other spiritual practices. His paintings are said to have hypnotic expression.
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2017 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

PAYU PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

 Payu Peak (6,610 m - 21, 686 ft)

Pakistan

Photographed in 1909

The mountain 

The Payu Peak  ( 6610 m - 21, 686 ft) is located in the central Karakoram (or Karakorum) in Pakistan,  on the north side of the Baltoro glacier at the western end of the Baltoro Muztagh. It is named after a mountain range, the Payu group, which includes the Uli Biaho peak, Uli Biaho Tower and Choricho.  In 1974, there was an attempt at ascension of a Pakistani-American expedition under the leadership of Nicholas B. Clinch, in which a Pakistani member was mortally injured.

In July the same year, a  spanish team (Alberto Inurrategui, Jeauna Vallejo and Mikel Zabal) tried to reach the summit by the South face but was injured by a stone fall a few meters before the pilar.

In the following year, a French expedition under Jean Fréhel attempted the first ascent. 

Finally, in 1976 a Pakistani mountaineer group succeeded in climbing the Paiju Peak. Bashir Ahmed, Manzoor Hussain and Nazir Ahmed Sabir reached the summit on July 20, 1976.  The group was accompanied by the American climber Allen Steck until shortly before the summit. 

The artist
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).

He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2  in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.
Source:
 -  The Georgian Museum of Photography

MOUNT GESSI BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

 Mount Gessi (4,578 m -15,018 ft)

Uganda

1. In Mount Gessi Panorama,  photo, 1906, Ruwenzori Expedition

 2.  In Mount Gessi seen from Mount Baker, photo, 1906, Ruwenzori Expedition 

The mountain 
Mount Gessi  (4,578 m -15,018 ft) is among the six mountains that make up the Rwenzori range. Like Mount Emin, it is positioned north of the triangle shaped by Mounts Stanley, Baker and Speke. Mount Gessi  ranks the 5th tallest mountain in Uganda.
Mount Gessi and Emin are on either side of a long slim gorge heading north-southwards. The twin peaks of Gessi are Iolanda (4,715m-15,470 feet) plus Bottego (4,700m-15,418 feet). Mount Gessi is elevated to rocky north-south edge with the upper peak being at the south end. The mountain is characterized with huts and decent tracks from both the DR Congo and Ugandan side. From Mutsori in Congo, local tribesmen are present as to work as porters and guides. There are numerous shanties preserved all through the Rwenzori.

The photographer

Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Ruwenzori
- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.
Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "
The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa.

LE PIC ALEXANDRA PHOTOGRAPHIÉ PAR VITTORIO SELLA EN 1906

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5, 091m)
Congo - Uganda border

In Alexandra peak , western glacier, photographie à la chambre, 1906

Le photographe
Vittorio Sella est un alpiniste et photographe italien qui a hérité sa passion pour la montagne de son oncle, Quintino Sella, fondateur du Club Alpin Italien. Il accomplit de nombreuses ascensions remarquables dans les Alpes, le premier hivernage au Cervin et au Mont Rose (1882) et la première traversée hivernale du
Mont Blanc (1888) et des Rouies (1900).
Il participe à diverses expéditions hors d'Italie :
- Trois dans le Caucase en 1889, 1890 et 1896 où un sommet porte encore son nom ;
- L'ascension du Mont Saint Elias en Alaska en 1897 ;
- Sikkim et Népal en 1899 ;
- Gravit le mont Stanley en Ouganda en 1906 lors d'une expédition dans le Rwenzori ;
- Reconnaissance au K2 en 1909 ;
- Au Maroc en 1925.
Lors d'expéditions en Alaska, en Ouganda et au Karakoram, il accompagne le duc des Abruzzes, le prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continue la pratique de l'escalade jusqu'à ses vieux jours, complétant sa dernière tentative sur le Cervin à l'âge de 76 ans ; une ascension dont il a dû interrompre la montée suite à un accident dans lequel l'un de ses guides s'est blessé. Il mourut dans sa ville natale pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Sa collection photographique est désormais gérée par la Fondation Sella.
Ses photos de montagne sont encore aujourd'hui considérées comme parmi les plus belles jamais réalisées.
Jim Curran estime que « Sella reste probablement le plus grand photographe de montagne. Son nom est synonyme de perfection technique et de raffinement esthétique. »
La qualité des images de Vittorio Sella s'explique en partie par l'utilisation d'une caméra de visualisation 30 × 40 cm, malgré la difficulté de transport d'un tel appareil, à la fois lourd et fragile dans des endroits inaccessibles ; pour pouvoir le transporter en toute sécurité, il a dû fabriquer des pièces spéciales pouvant être rangées dans des sacoches. Ses photographies ont été largement diffusées, soit dans la presse, soit dans les galeries, et ont été unanimement saluées ; Ansel Adams, qui a pu en admirer trente et un lors d'une exposition organisée au Sella American Sierra Club, a déclaré qu'ils lui avaient inspiré « un sentiment d'émerveillement religieux ». Beaucoup de ses clichés ont été pris en montagne pour la toute première fois dans l'Histoire, ce qui leur confère une grande valeur artistique, historique mais aussi scientifique ; par exemple, on pourrait mesurer le déclin des glaciers du Rwenzori en Afrique centrale.

La montagne
Le pic Alexandra (5 091 m) fait partie du mont Stanley situé dans la chaîne du Rwenzori, la plus haute montagne de la République démocratique du Congo et de l'Ouganda, et la troisième plus haute d'Afrique, après le mont Kilimandjaro (5 895 m). et le mont Kenya (5 199 m).
Le mont Stanley se compose de deux sommets jumeaux et de plusieurs sommets inférieurs qui sont :
Pic Margherita (5 109 m), Pic Alexandra (5 091 m), Pic Albert (5 087 m), Pic Savoia (4 977 m - 16 330 pieds), Pic Ellena (4 968 m - 16 300 pieds), Elizabeth Peak (4 929 m), Phillip Peak (4 920 m), Moebius Peak (4 916 m) et Great Tooth (4 603 m).
Le pic et plusieurs autres sommets environnants sont suffisamment hauts pour supporter des glaciers. Le mont Stanley doit son nom au journaliste et explorateur Sir Henry Morton Stanley. Il fait partie du parc national des Monts Rwenzori, un site classé au patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO.
Le mont Stanley a été escaladé pour la première fois en 1906 par le prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, duc des Abruzzes (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier et J. Brocherel. Il est également connu pour ses explorations de l'Arctique et pour ses expéditions d'alpinisme, notamment au Mont Saint Elias (Alaska-Yukon) et au K2 (Pakistan-Chine). Margherita Peak doit son nom à la reine Margherita d'Italie, cousine du prince.

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2024 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

MOUNT STANLEY'S MARGHERITA PEAK AND ALEXANDRA PEAK BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)

Margherita Peak / Mont Stanley (5,109 m-16,763 ft) 

Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5,091m - 16,703 ft)

Congo - Uganda border 

1.  In Mount Stanley - Margherita peak and Alexandra peak, 1906, hand painted photographs 

The mountains 

Margherita Peak (5,109 m-16,763 ft) is the highest point of Mount Stanley which consists of two twin summits and several lower peaks which are : 

Margherita Peak (5,109m - 16,763ft),  Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft), Albert Peak (5,087m - 16,690ft), Savoia Peak (4,977m - 16,330ft), Ellena Peak (4,968m -16,300ft), Elizabeth Peak (4,929m - 16,170 ft), Phillip Peak (4,920m - 16,140ft), Moebius Peak (4,916m - 16,130 ft) and Great Tooth (4,603m - 15,100ft). 

Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by Duke of the Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy.

Mount Stanley is located in the Rwenzori range or Ruwenzori Range. It is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Kilimandjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site.

Alexandra Peak (5,091m - 16,703ft) is part of Mount Stanley located in the Rwenzori range, the highest mountain of both Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda.
Mt. Stanley was first climbed in 1906 by the Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of the Abruzzi, (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. He is known as well for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy the prince's cousin.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa. As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGOs have supported the management and conservation of the property. A General Management Plan guides management operations on-site. Key challenges to address include illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming, human population pressure adjacent to the property and management of waste generated through tourism operations. UWA is addressing the above threats through resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The long-term maintenance of the integrity of the property will be achieved through sustainable financing, ecological monitoring, continued collaboration with key stakeholders and regional cooperation.

The photographer 
Vittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club. He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888) and Les Rouies (1900).
He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:
- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;
- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897;
- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899;
- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori;
- Recognition at K2 in 1909;
- In Morocco in 1925.
During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram, he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II. His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.
His photos mountain are still considered today to be among the finest ever made.

- More informations about Vittorio Sella

___________________________________________

2019 - Wandering Vertexes...

by Francis Rousseau 

MOUNT EMIN PHOGRAPHED IN 1906 BY VITTORIO SELLA

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943) 

Mount Emin (4,798 m -  15,741 ft) 

 Congo - Uganda border 

In Mt Emin seen from the Iolanda Glacier, photo  from the book  Ruwenzori-Africa,  1908 published by Dutton and Company - New York 

The mountain Mount Emin (4,798 m -  15,741 ft)  is one of the six mountains in the Ruwenzori mountain range and is located in Congo-Kinshasa on the border with Uganda. Emin and Mount Gessi , located in Uganda east of the border, are located on either side of a long narrow valley running north-south. Emin has two peaks called Umberto (4 798 meters) and Kraepelin (4 791 meters). The mountain forms a rocky north-south hill with the higher peak at the southern end. Like Gessi, Emin is north of the triangle formed by the tops of Stanleys , Spekes , and Bakers. Its ascent  was completed in 1906  by Luigi Amedo di Savoia, J. Petigax and L Petigax. The photo aboce is dating from this period The photographerVittorio Sella is a mountain italian climber and photographer who took his passion for mountains from his uncle, Quintino Sella, founder of the Italian Alpine Club.  He accomplished many remarkable climbs in the Alps, the first wintering in the Matterhorn and Mount Rose (1882) and the first winter crossing of Mont Blanc (1888).He took part in various expeditions outside Italy:- Three in the Caucasus in 1889, 1890 and 1896 where a summit still bears his name;- The ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897- Sikkim and Nepal in 1899- Possibly climb Mount Stanley in Uganda in 1906 during an expedition to the Rwenzori- Recognition at K2  and Mustagh Tower in 1909- In Morocco in 1925.During expeditions in Alaska, Uganda and Karakoram (K2-Chogolisa), he accompanied the Duke of Abruzzi, Prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.Sella continues the practice of climbing into his old age, completing his final attempt in the Matterhorn at the age of 76; a climb he had to interrupt the rise following an accident in which one of his guides injured. He died in his hometown during World War II.  His photographic collection is now managed by the Sella Foundation.His photos mountain are still  considered today to be among the finest ever made.Jim Curran believes that "Sella remains probably the greatest photographer of the mountain.  His name is synonymous with technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. "The quality of the pictures of Vittorio Sella is partly explained by the use of a view camera 30 × 40 cm, despite the difficulty of the transportation of such a device, both heavy and fragile in places inaccessible; to be able to transport it safely, he had to make special pieces that can be stored in saddle bags.  His photographs have been widely distributed, either through the press or in the galleries, and were unanimously celebrated; Ansel Adams, who was able to admire thirty-one in an exhibition that was organized at Sella American Sierra Club, said they inspired him "a religious kind of sense of wonder."  Many of his pictures were taken in the mountains for the very first time in the History, which give them a much artistic, historical  but also scientific value ; for example, one could measure the decline in the Rwenzori glaciers in Central Africa._______________________________

2018 - Wandering Vertexes...

by Francis Rousseau