LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PEINT PAR GABRIEL LOPPÉ

 

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)
Matterhorn / Cervin/ Cervino  (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse - Italie

In " Le Cervin vu de Riffelsee, huile sur toile, Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery London

 

 

La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses. 

Le peintre
Gabriel Loppé est un peintre français, photographe et alpiniste qui est devenu le premier étranger membre du Club alpin britannique de Londres. À 21 ans, il grimpe une petite montagne dans le Languedoc et y trouve un groupe de peintres qui en esquisse le sommet. Ce jour-là, il trouve sa vocation. Il se rend ensuite à Genève où il rencontre le chef de file suisse des peintres paysagistes, Alexandre Calame (1810-1864). Loppé s'initie à l'alpinisme à Grindelwald  dans les années 1850 et se fait facilement de nombreux amis parmi les alpinistes anglais en France et en Suisse. Bien qu'il soit souvent étiqueté comme un élève de Calame et de son rival François Diday, Loppé est plutôt un artiste autodidacte. Il est devenu le premier peintre à travailler à haute altitude, profitant de ses expéditions et gagnant le droit d'être considéré comme le fondateur de l'école des peintres-alpinistes, qui s'est établie en Savoie  à la fin du 19e siècle. Ses peintures sont aujourd'hui célèbres pour leur atmosphère et leur spontanéité  et  sont exposées régulièrement à Londres et Paris.  En 1896, Loppé aura passé plus de cinquante saisons d'escalade et de peinture à Chamonix. Parmi les disciples notables de Loppé, on compte Charles-Henri Contencin (1875-1955) et Jacques Fourcy (1900-1991). Ils se retrouvèrent ensemble pour la première ascension du Mont Mallet (un sommet du massif du Mont-Blanc) par la voie des Grandes Jorasses à Chamonix, Loppé fit également plus de quarante ascensions du Mont Blanc au cours de sa carrière d'alpiniste, qui a duré jusqu'à la fin des années 1890. Il a souvent fait des croquis à l'huile des sommets alpins, y compris un panorama depuis le sommet du Mont Blanc. Une exposition itinérante nommée "Voyages en montagne" a été consacrée à l'œuvre de l'artiste en 2005-2006 aux musées d'Annecy, de Chambéry et de Gap.
Dans ses dernières années, Loppé est pris d'une fascination pour la photographie et a même beaucoup innové dans ce domaine. Sa photographie de la Tour Eiffel frappée par la foudre fait maintenant partie des collections du Musée d'Orsay à Paris.

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2023 - Wandering Vertexes ....
Errant au-dessus des Sommets Silencieux...
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PAINTED BY FELIX VALOTTON

 

FELIX VALOTTON (1865-1925)
Cervin / Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland - Italy border

In  Zermatt et le Cervin /Matterhorn

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.


The painter
Félix Edouard Vallotton was a Swiss/French painter and printmaker associated (from 1892) with Les Nabis, a group of young artists that included Pierre Bonnard, Ker-Xavier Roussel, Maurice Denis, and Edouard Vuillard, with whom Vallotton was to form a lifelong friendship. During the 1890s, when Vallotton was closely allied with the avant-garde, his paintings reflected the style of his woodcuts, with flat areas of color, hard edges, and simplification of detail. His subjects included genre scenes, portraits and nudes. Examples of his Nabi style are the deliberately awkward Bathers on a Summer Evening (1892–93), now in the Kunsthaus Zurich, and the symbolist Moonlight (1895), in the Musée d'Orsay, Paris.
Vallotton's paintings of the post-Nabi period found admirers, and were generally respected for their truthfulness and their technical qualities, but the severity of his style was frequently criticized. Typical is the reaction of the critic who, writing in the March 23, 1910 issue of Neue Zurcher Zeitung, complained that Vallotton "paints like a policeman, like someone whose job it is to catch forms and colors. Everything creaks with an intolerable dryness ... the colors lack all joyfulness."
In its uncompromising character his art prefigured the New Objectivity that flourished in Germany during the 1920s, and has a further parallel in the work of Edward Hopper.

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2022 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

CERVIN / MATTERHORN BY EMIL NOLDE

EMIL NOLDE  (1867-1956) 

Cervin / Matterhorn  (4,478m -14,691ft)

Switzerland - Italy 

In Das Matterhorn Ladrelt (Smiling Watterhorn), 1897, gouache-poscard, 

Seebüll Nolde Foundation (Germany) 

The mountain 

The  Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.

Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.

- More about Mont Cervin / Matterhorn

The painter 
Emil Nolde (born Emil Hansen) was a German-Danish painter and printmaker. He was one of the first Expressionists, a member of Die Brücke (The Bridge) of Dresden in 1906, and was one of the first oil painting and watercolor painters of the early 20th century to explore color. He is known for his brushwork and expressive choice of colors. Golden yellows and deep reds appear frequently in his work, giving a luminous quality to otherwise somber tones. His watercolors include vivid, brooding storm-scapes and brilliant florals.
Nolde's intense preoccupation with the subject of flowers reflects his continuing interest in the art of Vincent van Gogh.
From the early 1920s,  Nolde was a supporter of the Nazi party, having become a member of its Danish section. He expressed anti-semitic, negative opinions about Jewish artists, and considered "Expressionism to be a distinctively Germanic style". This view was shared by some other members of the Nazi party, notably Joseph Goebbels and Fritz Hippler.
However Hitler rejected all forms of modernism as "degenerate art", and the Nazi regime officially condemned Nolde's work. Until that time he had been held in great prestige in Germany. A total of 1,052 of his works were removed from museums, more than those of any other artist.  Some were included in the Degenerate Art exhibition of 1937, despite his protests, including (later) a personal appeal to Nazi gauleiter Baldur von Schirach in Vienna. He was not allowed to paint—even in private—after 1941. Nevertheless, during this period he created hundreds of watercolors, which he hid. He called them the "Unpainted Pictures".
In 1942 Nolde wrote: "There is silver blue, sky blue and thunder blue. Every color holds within it a soul, which makes me happy or repels me, and which acts as a stimulus. To a person who has no art in him, colors are colors, tones tones...and that is all. All their consequences for the human spirit, which range between heaven to hell, just go unnoticed."
After World War II, Nolde was once again honored, receiving the German Order of Merit, He died in Seebüll (now part of Neukirchen). The Schiefler Catalogue raisonné of his prints describes 231 etchings, 197 woodcuts, 83 lithographs, and 4 hectographs.

About this work 
The postcards series date from  pre-expressionist phase of Nolde’s career (though he was around 30 when he created them). After hiking in the Swiss Alps, Nolde did a painting, Mountain Giants, presenting the mountains in human form. Nolde wrote : “The picture went to the annual exhibition in Munich in 1896. [Ferdinand] Hodler’s picture “Night”  which established his fame, was also there. But my “Mountain Giants" was soon returned, rejected… In those days there was a general and stormy derision and ridicule about each of Hodler’s pictures. ‘And his colors are as ugly as can be possible!’ What help was my contradiction and my firm conviction that his sinuous, pushing, wry bodies are part of the character of the mountain folk, just as the firs on the mountain slopes are gnarled and grown oddly.” From then, he painted practically every Swissw Alps Summit in human form: the Zugspitze, the Waxenstein, the Eiger, the Monch, the Jungfrau, the Grand Saint- Gothard, Piz Bernina, the Morteratch, the Ortler, the Finsteraarhorn... they will be posted one after one in this blog, the Cervin / Matterhorn being the first one.

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PAINTED BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)
Le Cervin or Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland - Italy border

In "Le Mont Cervin par temps nuageux, l'après midi", étude, huile sur toile 29x 18, 5cm, 1884.

The mountain

The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.
Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.
The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.
Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen
Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.
Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.
The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.
The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:
- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)
- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)
- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).
The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter
Toussaint Gabriel Loppé was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival François Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1906-1990). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s. He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.

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2021 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN PEINT PAR CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

  

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)
Le Cervin / Matterhorn/ Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft)
Suisse / Italie

La montagne
Le Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) appelé aussi Matterhorn et Cervino) est le 12e sommet des Alpes en atltude. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Il donne sur la ville suisse de Zermatt au nord-est et la ville italienne de Breuil-Cervinia au sud. Il relie la vallée de Zermatt et le Valtournenche, dans le Val d’Aoste, par le col de Saint-Théodule, à l’est. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques commerciales. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, est considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme dans les Alpes. Mais cette ascension réalisée sous la conduite d'Edward Whymper se solde, au début de la descente, par la mort de quatre des sept membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses.

Le peintre
Charles-Henri Contencin, est un peintre de montagne français. Élevé par sa grand-mère dans l'Oberland bernois jusqu'à l'âge de 10-12 ans, il demeure toute sa vie un passionné de montagne. Il fait la grande guerre dans l'infanterie et il reçoit la Croix de Guerre. Il travaille ensuite dans un cabinet d'architecte puis à la Compagnie des chemins de fer du Nord et enfin à la SNCF où il sera responsable des ouvrages d'art.  Doué pour le dessin, industriel et artistique, il a suivi des cours de dessin à l'école ABC de dessin de Paris3. En plus de ses dessins professionnels il est également auteur d'affiches et de prospectus publicitaires pour les chemins de fer sous le pseudonyme de « Charles-Henri ». Il est surtout connu pour sa peinture de montagne et laisse, en la matière, une œuvre importante. Il est entré à la SPM en 1929, en a été secrétaire général de 1950 à 1953, puis président de 1954 à 1955. Il a exposé régulièrement au Salon des artistes français. Il a également exposé au Salon des indépendants, de 1927 à 1938, notamment des tableaux représentant des paysages de Haute-Savoie et du Midi, au Salon de l'école française en 1932 : Neige à Chamonix  et Argentière (vallée de Chamonix)  et au Salon d'hiver de 1945 à 1950.  Sa palette est caractéristique et il apprécie tout particulièrement les effets de lever ou de coucher de soleil sur la neige  ou les glaciers.

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2023 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

 

 

LE CERVIN / MATTERHORN/ CERVINO PEINT PAR CESARE MAGGI

CESARE MAGGI (1881-1961)
Le Cervin / Matterhorn  / Cervino (4,478m -14,691ft)
Frontière Italo-Suisse

Il Lago Blu, Breuil-Cervinia, Val d’Aosta, Italy. (Le Matterhorn vu de Cervinia) huile sur toile, 100 x 140 cm, Courtesy John Mitchell Fine Paintings Gallery, London

La montagne
Le Cervin (en allemand : Matterhorn, en italien : Cervino) est, avec une altitude de 4 478 mètres, le 12e sommet des Alpes. Il est situé sur la frontière italo-suisse, entre le canton du Valais et la Vallée d'Aoste. Le Cervin est la montagne la plus connue de Suisse, notamment pour l'aspect pyramidal qu'elle offre depuis la ville de Zermatt, dans la partie alémanique du canton du Valais. Son image est régulièrement utilisée pour les logos de marques telles que Toblerone ou Ricola.  Ses quatre faces se rejoignent à environ 400 mètres en dessous du sommet dans une pyramide sommitale, appelée « le toit ». Son sommet est une arête large d'environ deux mètres, sur laquelle se distinguent en réalité deux sommets : celui appelé « sommet suisse », le plus à l'est, qui culmine à 4 477,8 mètres d'altitude, et le « sommet italien », légèrement plus bas (4 476 mètres), sur la partie ouest de l'arête. Les deux sont séparés par une échancrure au creux de laquelle une croix a été posée en septembre 1901. L'ascension par l'arête du Hörnli, le 14 juillet 1865, fut considérée comme le dernier des grands exploits de l'alpinisme européen. Mais cette ascension se solda, au début de la descente, par la mort de 4 des 7 membres de la cordée victorieuse. Sa face nord est l'une des trois grandes faces nord des Alpes avec celles de l'Eiger et des Grandes Jorasses.

Le peintre
Le peintre italien Cesare Maggi est né dans une famille d'acteurs. Maggi se lance dans les études classiques à la demande de son père mais aussi très tôt dans la peinture, d'abord avec l'artiste livornois Vittorio Matteo Corcos en 1897, puis avec Gaetano Esposito à Naples. Ses débuts à Florence à l'Esposizione Annuale della Società di Belle Arti di Firenze, en 1898, sont suivis d'un court voyage à Paris pour se tenir au courant des derniers évolutions. Le tournant décisif dans l'art de Maggi a lieu en 1889 avec l'exposition posthume de Giovanni Segantini organisée par la Société milanaise des Beaux-Arts, qui l'incite à passer définitivement à la peinture de paysage à caractère divisioniste. Après un court séjour à Engadine, il retourne à Milan avant de s'installer définitivement à Turin. La collaboration commerciale avec Alberto Grubicy jusqu'en 1913 permet à Maggi de s'établir rapidement comme l'un des principaux représentants de la deuxième génération de peintres divisionnistes en Italie. Il peint un répertoire de paysages de montagne facilement compréhensibles, se concentrant principalement sur les aspects de la perception visuelle du reflet de la lumière et de la couleur, mais manquant de la spiritualité profonde de l'œuvre de Segantini. Il participe aux grandes expositions italiennes et européennes et la Biennale de Venise consacre une salle entière à son travail à l'Esposizione Internazionale d'Arte de Venise en 1912. Après un intermède consacré à la peinture de portrait dans la même décennie, le travail mature de l'artiste se concentre sur une plus grande simplification du sujet, principalement dans les paysages. Maggi obtient la chaire de peinture à l'Académie Albertina à Turin en 1936. Cesare Maggi meurt en 1961 à Turin

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2023 - Wandering Vertexes ....
Errant au-dessus des Sommets Silencieux...
Un blog de Francis Rousseau 

THE CERVIN (MATTERHORN) PAINTED BY C.H. CONTENCIN

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955)

Mont Cervin or Mattherhorn (4,478m -14,691ft), 

Switzerland

In Mont Cervin Face ouest, oil on canvas

The mountain 

Here is Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) (in french), an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.

Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.

The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen

Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.

Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.

The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.

The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:

- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)

- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)

- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).

The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter 

Charles-Henri Contencin (1898-1955), is a French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers.

Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures.
In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

2016 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

THE CERVIN /MATTERHORN BY JOHN SINGER SARGENT

JOHN SINGER SARGENT  (1856–1925) 

 Le Cervin  or Matterhorn  (4,478m -14,691ft)

Switzerland - Italy border

 In The Cervin, watercolour, 1905 -  Private collection 

The mountain 

The  Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.

Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.

Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.

The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first

1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen

Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.

Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.

The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.

The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:

- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)

- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)

- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).

The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter 
John Singer Sargent  was an American artist who  created roughly 900 oil paintings and more than 2,000 watercolors, as well as countless sketches and charcoal drawings. His oeuvre documents worldwide travel, from Venice to the Tyrol, Switzerland, Corfu, the Middle East, Montana, Maine, and Florida. He was trained in Paris prior to moving to London. Sargent enjoyed international acclaim as a portrait painter, but  in later life he expressed ambivalence about the restrictions of formal portrait work, and devoted much of his energy to mural painting and working en plein air. He lived most of his life in Europe.  Each destination offered pictorial stimulation and treasure.  Even at his leisure, in escaping the pressures of the portrait studio, he painted with restless intensity, often painting from morning until night.  His hundreds of watercolors of Venice are especially notable, many done from the perspective of a gondola. His colors were sometimes extremely vivid and as one reviewer noted, "Everything is given with the intensity of a dream." In the Middle East and North Africa Sargent painted Bedouins, goatherds, and fisherman. In the last decade of his life, he produced many watercolors in Maine, Florida, and in the American West, of fauna, flora, and native peoples.
With his watercolors, Sargent was able to indulge his earliest artistic inclinations for nature, architecture, exotic peoples, and noble mountain landscapes. And it is in some of his late works where one senses Sargent painting most purely for himself. His watercolors were executed with a joyful fluidness.   His first major solo exhibit of watercolor works was at the Carfax Gallery in London in 1905. In 1909, he exhibited eighty-six watercolors in New York City, eighty-three of which were bought by the Brooklyn Museum. Evan Charteris wrote in 1927: 'To live with Sargent's water-colours is to live with sunshine captured and held, with the luster of a bright and legible world, 'the refluent shade' and 'the Ambient ardours of the noon.'
Although not generally accorded the critical respect given Winslow Homer, perhaps America's greatest watercolorist, scholarship has revealed that Sargent was fluent in the entire range of opaque and transparent watercolor technique, including the methods used by Homer.

2016 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN (2) PAINTED BY CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN

 

CHARLES-HENRI CONTENCIN (1898-1955),
Mont Cervin / Mattherhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland

In The Matterhorn West face seen from the Stockji Glacier, Switzerland, Oil on canvas (39 x 46cm) Courtesy John Mitchell gallery

The mountain
The Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) (in french), Matterhorn in German is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.
Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.
Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.
The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first
1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

The painter
Charles-Henri Contencin  is a famous French painter who painted many landscapes of mountain and high mountain of the great Alpine peaks, Mont Blanc and Massif and the Écrins mainly. His palette is characteristic. He particularly used the effects of sunrise or sunset over snow or glaciers. Raised in the Bernese Oberland to the age of 10-12 years, it was a lifelong mountain lover. Good climber, he was a member of the French Alpine Club, where he made the connection with the Mountain Painters Society (SPM). He made the First World War in the infantry and he received the War Cross. He then worked in an architectural office and at the Compagnie des chemins de Fer du Nord before joining the french national railways company, the SNCF, where he was responsible for engineering structures. In addition to his professional designs it is also author of posters and handbills for the railways under the pseudonym "Charles-Henri." He is best known for its mountain paintings and leaves an important work.

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2020 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

CERVIN / MATTERHORN BY FELIX VALOTTON

FELIX VALOTTON (1865-1925) 

Cervin / Matterhorn  (4,478m -14,691ft)
Switzerland - Italy border

About the work

Those very famous woodcuts and  illustrations in black and white brings to the young Swiss painter Felix Valotton an international fame. In 1891, he literally renewed the art of xylography following the publication of an article by Albert Aurier, "Le Symbolisme en peinture", calling for an "idealistic" and decorative art, from which would be banished "Concrete truth, illusionism, trompe-l'oeil". The engravings that Valotton show in 1892 made such a sensation that he was invited to take part in various shows (Salon des artistes français, Salon des indépendants, Salon d'automne).

In the begining of 1892 Valotton engraved on wood a series of mountains from the French and Swiss Alps, which he exhibited at the first Salon de la Rose-Croix in 1892. They were immediately noticed by the Nabis, a group he rallied from 1893 to 1903 before making a long friendship with Édouard Vuillard.

The mountain 

The  Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.

Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901.

The painter 

Félix Edouard Vallotton was a Swiss/French painter and printmaker associated (from 1892) with Les Nabis, a group of young artists that included Pierre Bonnard, Ker-Xavier Roussel, Maurice Denis, and Edouard Vuillard, with whom Vallotton was to form a lifelong friendship. During the 1890s, when Vallotton was closely allied with the avant-garde, his paintings reflected the style of his woodcuts, with flat areas of color, hard edges, and simplification of detail. His subjects included genre scenes, portraits and nudes. Examples of his Nabi style are the deliberately awkward Bathers on a Summer Evening (1892–93), now in the Kunsthaus Zurich, and the symbolist Moonlight (1895), in the Musée d'Orsay, Paris.

Vallotton's paintings of the post-Nabi period found admirers, and were generally respected for their truthfulness and their technical qualities, but the severity of his style was frequently criticized. Typical is the reaction of the critic who, writing in the March 23, 1910 issue of Neue Zurcher Zeitung, complained that Vallotton "paints like a policeman, like someone whose job it is to catch forms and colors. Everything creaks with an intolerable dryness ... the colors lack all joyfulness."

In its uncompromising character his art prefigured the New Objectivity that flourished in Germany during the 1920s, and has a further parallel in the work of Edward Hopper.

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2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau 

THE CERVIN / MATTERHORN BY EUGENE BRACHT

EUGEN BRACHT (1842 - 1921)

Cervin or Matterhorn (4,478m -14,691ft)

Switzerland - Italy border

In Das Matterhorn von Westen, 1907, Oil on canvas. 

The mountain 

The  Mont Cervin (4,478m -14,691ft) also known as the Matterhorn is an alpine summit located on the Swiss-Italian border between the canton of Valais and the Aosta Valley in Switzerland. It has several other names: Cervino in Italian, Grand'Bèca in Arpitan, Matterhorn in German. The Cervin / Matterhorn is the most famous mountain in Switzerland, including the pyramidal shape that it offers from the village of Zermatt, in the German-speaking part of the canton of Valais.

Its four sides are joined about 400 meters below the summit in a summit pyramid, called "roof." Its summit is a broad ridge about two meters, on which stand actually two summits: one called "Swiss summit," the farther east, and the "Italian summit" slightly lower (4,476 meters), on the west side of the ridge. The two are separated by a notch in the hollow of which a cross was laid in September 1901. Its north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps with the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses. The most famous faces of the Matterhorn are the faces east and north, seen from Zermatt. The first 1, 000 meters high, has great risk of falling rocks, which makes it dangerous climb. The north face high of 1100 meters, is one of the most dangerous sides of the Alps, particularly because of the risks of landslides and storms. The south side, overlooking the Breuil (Valtournenche above) is high, it, 1 350 meters. This is the face that offers the most channels. And finally, the west face the highest with its 1400 meters, is the one that is the subject of fewer climbs attempts. Between the west side and the north side there is also the north-northwest side, which does not stretch to the summit but stopped Zmutt Nose, on the bridge of the same name. This is the most dangerous route for climbing the Matterhorn. There is also a south-facing southeast, deemed to be the most difficult of the south face route, which leads to the Pic Muzio, on Furggen Shoulder.

Due to its pyramidal form, the Matterhorn has four main ridges, through which pass most of climbing routes. The easiest ridge, that borrows the normal route, is the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German): it is between the faces east and north, facing the Zermatt valley. Further west lies the Zmutt ridge (Zmuttgrat), between the north and west sides. Between the western and southern sides is the Lion ridge (Liongrat), also known as Italian ridge, which passes through the Tyndall peak, summit of the southern part of the west side, at which begins the upper face. Finally, the south side is separated from the face is Furggen

Swiss normal route from the cabin of the Hörnli, located at 3260 meters. Since Zermatt is accessed by gondola Schwarzsee; there are 700 vertical meters to the hut and 1200 vertical meters to the summit.

Difficulty (Hörnli ridge): AD (fairly difficult), 3 climbing passage; fixed ropes were installed near the top for easy ascension.

The Italian normal route, taking his departure in Breuil, follows almost entirely the southwest ridge, called the Lion ridge. It was inaugurated by the guide valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel 17 July 1865.

The climb from the Italian side includes three steps:

- du Breuil (2012 meters) at the shelter Duke of Abruzzi in Oriondé (2802 meters)

- the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi refuge to Jean-Antoine Carrel (3830 meters)

- Jean-Antoine Carrel refuge at the summit (4478 meters).

The ascent by Hörnli ridge, July 14, 1865, was considered the last of the great feats of mountaineering in the Alps. But this ascent error ended at the beginning of the descent, in the death of 4 of the 7 members of the roped Victorieuse.

The painter 
Eugen Felix Prosper Bracht was a German landscape painter born in Morges, Waadt (near Lake Geneva in Switzerland) of German parents. Then he moved with his parents to Darmstadt, Germany where he was a pupil of Karl Ludwig Seeger at the Academy of Fine Arts, Karlsruhe. Later he studied under Hans Gude in Dusseldorf. Dissatisfied with his work, in 1864 he moved to Berlin and became a merchant. In 1876 he decided to become a painter after all and he joined his former teacher in Karlsruhe. He mostly painted landscapes and was one of the famous painters of the late Romanticism in Germany.
He was known for landscapes and coastal scenes in North Germany, and in 1880 and 1881, he made a sketching trip through Syria, Palestine and Egypt. In 1882 he became a Professor of Landscape Painting at the Prussian Academy of Arts. In 1885 he painted the Battle of Chattanooga for the "Philadelphia Panorama Company", a cyclorama which was installed in Philadelphia and Kansas City. Later he became a representative of German Impressionism. In 1901 he obtained a teaching position at the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts that he held until 1919. 

LE MONT USHBA PHOTOGAPHIÉ PAR VITTORIO SELLA EN 1890

VITTORIO SELLA  (1859-1943)
Mount Ushba ( 4,710m)
Géorgie

In Le double sommet du Mount Ushba, photographie à la chambre in situ, 1889-90,
The Royal Geographic Society

La montagne
L'Ushba (4,710m) est l'un des sommets les plus remarquables du Caucase. Il est situé dans la région de Svanétie en Géorgie, juste au sud de la frontière avec la région de Kabardino-Balkarie en Russie. Bien qu'il ne figure pas parmi les 10 plus hauts sommets de la chaîne, l'Ushba est connu sous le nom de « Cervin du Caucase » en raison de son pittoresque double sommet en forme de flèche. L'Ushba est considéré par de nombreux alpinistes comme l'ascension la plus difficile du Caucase.
Dans la mythologie géorgienne, l'Ushba était considérée comme la demeure de la déesse de la chasse Dali.
Le sommet sud de l'Ushba est légèrement plus élevé que son sommet nord, qui culmine à 4 690 m (15 387 pieds). Le sommet nord a été gravi pour la première fois en 1888 par John Garford Cokklin et Ulrich Almer, tandis que le sommet sud a connu sa première ascension en 1903 par une expédition germano-suisse-autrichienne dirigée par B. Rickmer-Rickmers.
Le sommet nord de l'Ushba est plus accessible que le sommet sud : la voie standard, l'arête nord-est, monte du côté russe de la chaîne jusqu'à un haut plateau et de là jusqu'au sommet. (Ainsi, une ascension au sommet par cette voie implique techniquement de traverser la frontière.) L'itinéraire est classé AD+ français ou 4a russe. Les itinéraires sur le sommet sud, du côté géorgien, comprennent deux itinéraires classés ED français.
Avant la découverte à la fin des années 1980 du pic 4810 à Karavshin, Ushba, ainsi que Chatyn-Tau et le pic Free Korea au Kirghizistan, étaient considérés comme les sommets les plus difficiles et les plus prestigieux à gravir dans l'ancienne Union soviétique.  L'ascension de l'Ushba  est devenu très périlleuse en raison du changement climatique. Plusieurs alpinistes y trouver la mort ces dernières années. 

Le photographe
Vittorio Sella est un alpiniste et photographe italien qui a hérité sa passion pour la montagne de son oncle, Quintino Sella, fondateur du Club Alpin Italien. Il a réalisé de nombreuses ascensions remarquables dans les Alpes, le premier hivernage au Cervin et au Mont Rose (1882) et la première traversée hivernale du Mont Blanc (1888) et des Rouies (1900).
Il a participé à diverses expéditions hors d'Italie :
- Le Caucase en 1889, 1890 et 1896 (où un sommet porte encore son nom)
- Le Mont Saint Elias en Alaska en 1897 ;
- Le Sikkim et le Népal en 1899 ;
- Peut-être l'ascension du Mont Stanley en Ouganda en 1906 lors d'une expédition au Rwenzori ;
- La reconnaissance au K2 en 1909 ;
- Au Maroc en 1925.
Lors d'expéditions en Alaska, en Ouganda et au Karakoram, il accompagne le duc des Abruzzes, le prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continue la pratique de l'escalade jusqu'à un âge avancé, réalisant sa dernière tentative au Cervin à l'âge de 76 ans ; une ascension dont il dut interrompre l'ascension suite à un accident dans lequel l'un de ses guides se blessa. Il mourut dans sa ville natale pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Sa collection photographique est aujourd'hui gérée par la Fondation Sella.
Ses photos de montagne sont encore aujourd'hui considérées comme parmi les plus belles jamais réalisées.
Jim Curran estime que "Sella reste probablement le plus grand photographe de la montagne. Son nom est synonyme de perfection technique et de raffinement esthétique."
La qualité des clichés de Vittorio Sella s'explique en partie par l'utilisation d'une chambre photographique 30 × 40 cm, malgré la difficulté du transport d'un tel appareil, à la fois lourd et fragile dans des endroits inaccessibles ; pour pouvoir le transporter en toute sécurité, il a dû fabriquer des pièces spéciales pouvant être rangées dans des sacoches de selle. Ses photographies ont été largement diffusées, soit par la presse, soit dans les galeries, et ont été unanimement saluées ; Ansel Adams, qui a pu en admirer trente et une lors d'une exposition organisée au Sella American Sierra Club, a déclaré qu'elles lui inspiraient « un sentiment religieux d'émerveillement ». Beaucoup de ses images ont été prises en montagne pour la toute première fois dans l'Histoire, ce qui leur confère une dimension artistique et historique beaucoup plus importante aujourd'hui.

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2024 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

LE PIC ALEXANDRA PHOTOGRAPHIÉ PAR VITTORIO SELLA EN 1906

VITTORIO SELLA (1859-1943)
Alexandra Peak / Mount Stanley (5, 091m)
Congo - Uganda border

In Alexandra peak , western glacier, photographie à la chambre, 1906

Le photographe
Vittorio Sella est un alpiniste et photographe italien qui a hérité sa passion pour la montagne de son oncle, Quintino Sella, fondateur du Club Alpin Italien. Il accomplit de nombreuses ascensions remarquables dans les Alpes, le premier hivernage au Cervin et au Mont Rose (1882) et la première traversée hivernale du
Mont Blanc (1888) et des Rouies (1900).
Il participe à diverses expéditions hors d'Italie :
- Trois dans le Caucase en 1889, 1890 et 1896 où un sommet porte encore son nom ;
- L'ascension du Mont Saint Elias en Alaska en 1897 ;
- Sikkim et Népal en 1899 ;
- Gravit le mont Stanley en Ouganda en 1906 lors d'une expédition dans le Rwenzori ;
- Reconnaissance au K2 en 1909 ;
- Au Maroc en 1925.
Lors d'expéditions en Alaska, en Ouganda et au Karakoram, il accompagne le duc des Abruzzes, le prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia.
Sella continue la pratique de l'escalade jusqu'à ses vieux jours, complétant sa dernière tentative sur le Cervin à l'âge de 76 ans ; une ascension dont il a dû interrompre la montée suite à un accident dans lequel l'un de ses guides s'est blessé. Il mourut dans sa ville natale pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Sa collection photographique est désormais gérée par la Fondation Sella.
Ses photos de montagne sont encore aujourd'hui considérées comme parmi les plus belles jamais réalisées.
Jim Curran estime que « Sella reste probablement le plus grand photographe de montagne. Son nom est synonyme de perfection technique et de raffinement esthétique. »
La qualité des images de Vittorio Sella s'explique en partie par l'utilisation d'une caméra de visualisation 30 × 40 cm, malgré la difficulté de transport d'un tel appareil, à la fois lourd et fragile dans des endroits inaccessibles ; pour pouvoir le transporter en toute sécurité, il a dû fabriquer des pièces spéciales pouvant être rangées dans des sacoches. Ses photographies ont été largement diffusées, soit dans la presse, soit dans les galeries, et ont été unanimement saluées ; Ansel Adams, qui a pu en admirer trente et un lors d'une exposition organisée au Sella American Sierra Club, a déclaré qu'ils lui avaient inspiré « un sentiment d'émerveillement religieux ». Beaucoup de ses clichés ont été pris en montagne pour la toute première fois dans l'Histoire, ce qui leur confère une grande valeur artistique, historique mais aussi scientifique ; par exemple, on pourrait mesurer le déclin des glaciers du Rwenzori en Afrique centrale.

La montagne
Le pic Alexandra (5 091 m) fait partie du mont Stanley situé dans la chaîne du Rwenzori, la plus haute montagne de la République démocratique du Congo et de l'Ouganda, et la troisième plus haute d'Afrique, après le mont Kilimandjaro (5 895 m). et le mont Kenya (5 199 m).
Le mont Stanley se compose de deux sommets jumeaux et de plusieurs sommets inférieurs qui sont :
Pic Margherita (5 109 m), Pic Alexandra (5 091 m), Pic Albert (5 087 m), Pic Savoia (4 977 m - 16 330 pieds), Pic Ellena (4 968 m - 16 300 pieds), Elizabeth Peak (4 929 m), Phillip Peak (4 920 m), Moebius Peak (4 916 m) et Great Tooth (4 603 m).
Le pic et plusieurs autres sommets environnants sont suffisamment hauts pour supporter des glaciers. Le mont Stanley doit son nom au journaliste et explorateur Sir Henry Morton Stanley. Il fait partie du parc national des Monts Rwenzori, un site classé au patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO.
Le mont Stanley a été escaladé pour la première fois en 1906 par le prince Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, duc des Abruzzes (1873-1933), J. Petigax, C. Ollier et J. Brocherel. Il est également connu pour ses explorations de l'Arctique et pour ses expéditions d'alpinisme, notamment au Mont Saint Elias (Alaska-Yukon) et au K2 (Pakistan-Chine). Margherita Peak doit son nom à la reine Margherita d'Italie, cousine du prince.

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2024 - Gravir les montagnes en peinture
Un blog de Francis Rousseau

CLIFFS OF SEELISBERG & OBERBAUENSTOCK PEAK BY ALEXANDRE CALAME

ALEXANDRE CALAME (1810-1864) 

Oberbauenstock peak  (2,117m - 6,946 ft) 

Switzerland

In Cliffs of Seelisberg, Lake Lucerne, oil on canvas laid on cardboard, 1861,  

Courtesy John Mitchell Gallery, London 

About this painting
The hamlet of Seelisberg is located on one of Lake Lucerne’s promontories. Also referred to as the Vierwaldstättersee, the lake was a favourite haunt of Calame.  The shores of the lake have changed little since this daring and vertiginous view over the cliffs was painted. This oil sketch echoes Caspar David Friedrich’s sublime Cliffs at Rügen in the Oskar Reinhart Museum in Winterthur which also has an important collection of Calame paintings on public display.  

The mountain
The Oberbauenstock peak (2,117m -6,946 ft)  is a mountain of the Urner Alps, overlooking Lake Lucerne in Central Switzerland. Its summit is located on the border between the cantons of Nidwalden and Uri. The small resort of Seelisberg is situated like a peninsula and surrounded by the Vierwaldstättersee with majestic views of lake and mountains. The historically symbolic Rütli Meadow, legendary founding site of the Swiss Confederation, also belongs to Seelisberg.

The painter
Alexandre Calame was a Swiss painter. He was the son of a skillful marble worker in Vevey. His father lost the family fortune, and Alexandre Calame was forced to work in a bank at the age of 15. When his father fell from a building and then died, the young Calame provided for his mother.
In his spare time he began to practice drawing small views of Switzerland. In 1829 he met his patron, the banker Diodati, who made it possible for him to study under landscape painter François Diday. After a few months he decided to devote himself fully to art.
In 1835, he began exhibiting his Swiss-Alps and forest paintings in Paris and Berlin. He became quite well known, especially in Germany, although Calame was more a drawer than an illustrator. He is associated with the Dusseldorf school of painting. In 1842 he went to Paris and displayed his works Mont Blanc, the Jungfrau, the Brienzersee, the Monte Rosa and Mont Cervin. He taught in Geneva, where Adolf Mosengel was one of his pupils.
He went to Italy in 1844 and brought back from Rome and Naples countless paintings, among them one of the ruins of Paestum (in the city museum in Leipzig). He showed that he was capable of understanding Italian nature; but the Alps remained his speciality.
The glaciers, emerald-green, white foaming mountain water, which split the trees during the storm, and the whipped clouds, the multi-colored rocks, half masked from fog, in the rays of the gleaming sun, are those things, which he knew to be true to nature.
One of his most ingenious works is the representation of the four seasons and times of the day in four landscapes, a spring morning in the south, a summer midday in the Nordic flatlands, an Autumn evening, and a winter night on a mountain. He became popular with these large works, and his popularity grew with smaller pieces and lithographies, namely 18 studies of Lauterbrunnen and Meiringen and the 24 sheets of Alpine passes. These were widespread in France, England, and Germany and are still today used to teach this style of painting. 

An exhibition featuring more than thirty of Calame's paintings was held at the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute in Williamstown, Massachusetts in 2006.
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2020 - Wandering Vertexes..
by Francis Rousseau

 

THE JUNGFRAU, MÖNCH AND EIGER SEEN BY EMIL NOLDE

EMIL NOLDE  (1867-1956)

The Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13, 642 ft)  

 The Mönch (4,107 m - 13,474 ft)

The Eiger (3,970 m -13,020 ft)

Switzerland

In Jungfrau, Mönch et Eiger, 1910

The mountains 

The Jungfrau (4,158 m - 13,642 ft) ("The virgin" in german) is one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps, located between the northern canton of Bern and the southern canton of Valais, halfway between Interlaken and Fiesch. Together with the Eiger and Mönch, the Jungfrau forms a massive wall overlooking the Bernese Oberland and the Swiss Plateau, one of the most distinctive sights of the Swiss Alps. It is one of the most represented by artists summits with the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc.
- More about the Jungfrau 

The Mönch  (4,107 m - 13,474 ft) is a mountain in the Bernese Alps, in Switzerland.  The Mönch lies on the border between the cantons of Valais and Bern, and forms part of a mountain ridge between the Jungfrau and Jungfraujoch to the west, and the Eiger to the east. It is west of Mцnchsjoch, a pass at 3,650 metres (11,980 ft), Mцnchsjoch Hut, and north of the Jungfraufirn and Ewigschneefдld, two affluents of the Great Aletsch Glacier. The north side of the Mцnch forms a step wall above the Lauterbrunnen valley. The Jungfrau railway tunnel runs right under the summit, at an elevation of approximately 3,300 metres (10,830 ft). The peak was first climbed 159 years ago in 1857 on August 15, ascended by Christian Almer, Christian Kaufmann, Ulrich Kaufmann and Sigismund Porges.

The Eiger (3,970 m- 13,020 ft) is located in the  Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mцnch to the Jungfrau, constituting one of the most emblematic sights of the Swiss Alps. While the northern side of the mountain rises more than 3,000m -10,000 ft above the two valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, the southern side faces the large glaciers of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, the most glaciated region in the Alps. The most notable feature of the Eiger is its 1,800-metre-high - 5,900 ft north face of rock and ice, named Eigerwand or Nordwand, which is the biggest north face in the Alps. This huge face towers over the resort of Kleine Scheidegg at its base, on the homonymous pass connecting the two valleys.
- More about the Eiger 


The painter 
Emil Nolde (born Emil Hansen) was a German-Danish painter and printmaker. He was one of the first Expressionists, a member of Die Brücke (The Bridge) of Dresden in 1906, and was one of the first oil painting and watercolor painters of the early 20th century to explore color. He is known for his brushwork and expressive choice of colors. Golden yellows and deep reds appear frequently in his work, giving a luminous quality to otherwise somber tones. His watercolors include vivid, brooding storm-scapes and brilliant florals.
Nolde's intense preoccupation with the subject of flowers reflects his continuing interest in the art of Vincent van Gogh.
From the early 1920s,  Nolde was a supporter of the Nazi party, having become a member of its Danish section. He expressed anti-semitic, negative opinions about Jewish artists, and considered "Expressionism to be a distinctively Germanic style". This view was shared by some other members of the Nazi party, notably Joseph Goebbels and Fritz Hippler.
However Hitler rejected all forms of modernism as "degenerate art", and the Nazi regime officially condemned Nolde's work. Until that time he had been held in great prestige in Germany. A total of 1,052 of his works were removed from museums, more than those of any other artist.  Some were included in the Degenerate Art exhibition of 1937, despite his protests, including (later) a personal appeal to Nazi gauleiter Baldur von Schirach in Vienna. He was not allowed to paint—even in private—after 1941. Nevertheless, during this period he created hundreds of watercolors, which he hid. He called them the "Unpainted Pictures".
In 1942 Nolde wrote: "There is silver blue, sky blue and thunder blue. Every color holds within it a soul, which makes me happy or repels me, and which acts as a stimulus. To a person who has no art in him, colors are colors, tones tones...and that is all. All their consequences for the human spirit, which range between heaven to hell, just go unnoticed."
After World War II, Nolde was once again honored, receiving the German Order of Merit, He died in Seebüll (now part of Neukirchen). The Schiefler Catalogue raisonné of his prints describes 231 etchings, 197 woodcuts, 83 lithographs, and 4 hectographs.

About this work 
The postcards series date from  pre-expressionist phase of Nolde’s career (though he was around 30 when he created them). After hiking in the Swiss Alps, Nolde did a painting, Mountain Giants, presenting the mountains in human form. Nolde wrote : “The picture went to the annual exhibition in Munich in 1896. [Ferdinand] Hodler’s picture “Night”  which established his fame, was also there. But my “Mountain Giants" was soon returned, rejected… In those days there was a general and stormy derision and ridicule about each of Hodler’s pictures. ‘And his colors are as ugly as can be possible!’ What help was my contradiction and my firm conviction that his sinuous, pushing, wry bodies are part of the character of the mountain folk, just as the firs on the mountain slopes are gnarled and grown oddly.” From then, he painted practically every Swiss Alps Summit in human form: the Cervin / Matterhorn, the Zugspitze, the Waxenstein, the Eiger, the Monch, the Jungfrau, the Grand Saint- Gothard, Piz Bernina, the Morteratch, the Ortler, the Finsteraarhorn... they will be posted one by one in this blog.

LES DENTS DU MIDI PAINTED BY ALEXANDRE CALAME

ALEXANDRE CALAME (1810-1864) 

Les Dents du Midi (3,114 m to 3,257 m -10,216 ft to10,685 ft) 

Switzerland

In La Dent du Midi, oil on canvas  (100 x 140 cm), 1849.  Musées d'art et d'histoire, Ville de Genève

The mountain 
The Dents du Midi (Teeth of the south) (3,114 m to 3,257 m -10,216 ft to 10,685 ft) are a mountain range, 3 kilometers long, located in the Chablais Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. Overlooking the valley of Illiez and Rhône Valley on south, they face the lake Salanfe, an artificial reservoir, and are part of the geological whole massif Giffre.
The name "Dents du Midi" is recent. The people formerly called them "Dents Tsallen". It was only towards the end of the19e century that the name "Dents du Midi" came officially.
Each « tooth » had several names over the centuries and according to its geological evolution.
- The "Cime de l'Est" (3,178 meters) called "Mont Novierre" before the mid-17th century, and "Mont Saint-Michel "after landslides in 1635 and 1636 and finally "Dent Noire" (until the 19th century).
- The "Dent Jaune" (3,186 m) was called the "Dent Rouge" until 1879.
- The "Doigt de Champéry" (in 1882) and then the Doigt Salanfe (in 1886) turned just into "Les Doigts" (Fingers) (3,205 m and 3210 m).
- The  "Haute Cime" (3,257 m) also had many names : "Dent de l’Ouest" (until 1784) and then "Dent du Midi", "Dent de Tsallen" and "Dent de Challent."
- As for l’Eperon (3,114 m) (The Spur), it is assumed that there were two peaks but a landslide in the Middle Ages significantly changed its crest.
- The Forteresse (3,164 m) and the Cathedral (3,160 m) have not changed names.
The evolution of this massif continues nowadays. So on the morning of 30 October 2006, a volume of 1 million m3 of rock broke away from the edge of the Haute Cime and slid down the slope to an altitude of about 3,000 m. The event did not present danger to the nearby village of Val-d'Illiez but roads and trails were closed for security reasons. According to the cantonal geologist, the landslide was caused by the thawing of rocks, helped by warm summers of recent years.

The Painter 
Alexandre Calame )was a Swiss painter.  He was the son of a skillful marble worker in Vevey. His father lost the family fortune, and Alexandre Calame was forced to work in a bank at the age of 15. When his father fell from a building and then died, the young Calame  provided for his mother.
In his spare time he began to practice drawing small views of Switzerland. In 1829 he met his patron, the banker Diodati, who made it possible for him to study under landscape painter François Diday. After a few months he decided to devote himself fully to art.
In 1835, he began exhibiting his Swiss-Alps and forest paintings in Paris and Berlin. He became quite well known, especially in Germany, although Calame was more a drawer than an illustrator. He is associated with the Dusseldorf school of painting. In 1842 he went to Paris and displayed his works Mont Blanc, the Jungfrau, the Brienzersee, the Monte Rosa and Mont Cervin. He taught in Geneva, where Adolf Mosengel was one of his pupils.
He went to Italy in 1844 and brought back from Rome and Naples countless paintings, among them one of the ruins of Paestum (in the city museum in Leipzig). He showed that he was capable of understanding Italian nature; but the Alps remained his speciality.
The glaciers, emerald-green, white foaming mountain water, which split the trees during the storm, and the whipped clouds, the multi-colored rocks, half masked from fog, in the rays of the gleaming sun, are those things, which he knew to be true to nature.
One of his most ingenious works is the representation of the four seasons and times of the day in four landscapes, a spring morning in the south, a summer midday in the Nordic flatlands, an Autumn evening, and a winter night on a mountain. He became popular with these large works, and his popularity grew with smaller pieces and lithographies, namely 18 studies of Lauterbrunnen and Meiringen and the 24 sheets of Alpine passes. These were widespread in France, England, and Germany and are still today used to teach this style of painting.
An exhibition featuring more than thirty of Calame's paintings was held at the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute in Williamstown, Massachusetts in 2006.

______________________________
2018 - Wandering Vertexes...
by Francis Rousseau

LES GRANDES JORASSES BY GABRIEL LOPPÉ

GABRIEL LOPPÉ (1825-1913)

Les Grandes Jorasses (4,208m -13, 806 ft) 

 France - Italy border  

In Lever de soleil sur les Grandes Jorasses, 1872, oil on canvas,
Collection Amis du Vieux Chamonix

The mountain 

The Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m - 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy.  Les Grandes Jorasses are, simply speaking, the most strikingly complex and powerful structure of the entire Mont Blanc massif. If Mt. Blanc is the king of the Alps, the Grandes Jorasses complex is truly the queen.

The summits on the mountain (from east to west) are:

- Pointe Walker (4,208 m; 13,806 ft), named after Horace Walker, who made the first ascent of the mountain.

- Pointe Whymper (4,184 m; 13,727 ft), he second-highest summit named after Edward Whymper, who made the first ascent.

- Pointe Croz (4,110 m - 13,484 ft), named after Michel Croz, a guide from Chamonix.

- Pointe Elena (4,045 m -13,271 ft), named after Princess Elena of Savoy.

- Pointe Margherita (4,065 m- 13,337), named after Queen Margherita of Savoy, wife of King Umberto I of Italy

- Pointe Young (3,996 m - 13,110 ft)   named after Geoffrey Winthrop Young.

The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain (Pointe Walker) was by Horace Walker with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange on 30 June 1868. The second-highest peak on the mountain (Pointe Whymper )was first climbed by Edward Whymper, Christian Almer, Michel Croz and Franz Biner on June 24, 1865, using what has become the normal route of ascent and the one followed by Walker's party in 1868.

North Face

Located on the French side of the mountain, the north face is one of the three great north faces of the Alps, along with the north faces of the Eiger and the Cervin/Matterhorn (known as 'the Trilogy'). One of the most famous walls in the Alps, it towers 1200 m (3,900 ft) above the Leschaux Glacier, stretching 1 km from end to end. 

South face

On the Italian side of the mountain, the south face can be accessed from the Boccalatte cabin, above the hamlet of Planpincieux in the Italian Val Ferret, part of the  municipality.

Summit ridge.

From the Col des Hirondelles, the summit ridge connects Pt. Walker to the other summit points and then descends to the Col des Grandes Jorasses where a bivouac shelter is located - the Bivouac E Canzio hut. The ridge forms the French-Italian border, almost all of which is above 4,000 m -13,000 ft).

The painter 

Gabriel Loppé (1825–1913) was a French painter, photographer and mountaineer. He became the first foreigner to be made a member of the Alpine Club in London. His father was a captain in the French Engineers and Loppé's childhood was spent in many different towns in south-eastern France. Aged twenty-one Loppé climbed a small mountain in the Languedoc and found a group of painters sketching on the summit. He had found his calling and subsequently went off to Geneva where he met the reputed leading Swiss landscapist, Alexandre Calame (1810 -1864). Loppé took up mountaineering in Grindelwald in the 1850s and made friends easily with the many English climbers in France and Switzerland. Although he was frequently labelled as a pupil of Calame and his rival Francois Diday, Loppé was almost an entirely self-taught artist. He became the first painter to work at higher altitudes during climbing expeditions earning the right to be considered the founder of the peintres-alpinistes school, which became established in the Savoie at the turn of the nineteenth century.
Notable followers of Loppé include, Charles Henri Contencin (1875-1955) and Jacques Fourcy (1900-1991). Together with the first ascent of Mt Mallet in Chamonix’s Grandes Jorasses range, Loppé made over 40 ascents of Mont Blanc during his climbing career, which lasted until the late 1890s.  He frequently made oil sketches from alpine summits, including a panorama of the view from the summit of Mont Blanc.
His paintings became celebrated for their atmosphere and spontaneity and he soon found himself taking part in many exhibitions in London and in Paris.
By 1896 Loppé had spent over fifty seasons climbing and painting in Chamonix. As the valley’s unrivalled ‘Court painter’ his work was in constant demand with the majority of his pictures going to English climbers and summer tourists.
In his later years, Loppé became fascinated with photography and was quite an innovator in this field too. His long exposure photograph of the Eiffel Tower struck by lightning, now in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris remains one of his iconic images.