ARTHUR P. COLEMAN (1852-1939)
Mount Athabasca (3,491m - 11,453ft)
Canada
1. In Athabasca near Wicox pass, 1807, watercolour, Private coll.
2. In Athabasca near Wilcox Pass between Saskatchewan & Athabasca,watercolour, Private coll.
3. In Up the Athabasca from Junction of Sunwapta, 1893, drawing, Private coll.
The mountain
Mount Athabasca (3,491m - 11,453ft) or Athabaska, is located in the Columbia Icefield of Jasper National Park in Canada. Athabasca is the Cree Indian name for "where there are reeds" which originally referred to Lake Athabasca.The first known Europeans to discover this peak in 1896 were Walter Wilcox, Robert Barrett and their two guides. They made an attempt to climb the peak but were unsuccessful.The mountain was named in 1898 by J. Norman Collie and ,Herman Woolley who made the first ascent on August 18 of that year. This climb of the mountain was the result of nineteen days of travel and searching on horseback and on foot, beginning in Lake Louise. It is a lot easier today.
After Mount Robson and Mount Temple, Mt. Athabasca may be the most well-known peak in the Canadian Rockies. It was my first Canadian alpine ascent and the same goes for many. The surrounding area include, Mt Andreomeda, Snow Dome, Mt. Kitchener, Mt Wilcox and Nigel Peak.
Definitely a main climbing and tourist attraction in the area.
Climbing
There are several climbing routes, including: North Glacier (Normal Route), Silverhorn, AA Col II, Regular North Face III 5.8, North Ridge III 5.5, The Hourglass 300m, III, AI3-4. One of the most prominent features of Mount Athabasca is a horned-shaped tip near the top called the "Silverhorn". The Silverhorn is one of the easier routes to the summit but requires more caution and ability than the normal route because of Blue ice and falling ice from other parties. Although not apparent from the typical roadside view of the mountain, the south side of Silverhorn actually contains a scrambling route but one must still cross the north glacier to get to it. From the top of the Silverhorn, the summit is a rather easy 15-minute plod in good summer weather over the narrow snow-covered summit ridge.
Sources:
The artist
Arthur Philemon Coleman Biography in this blog
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